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KC61

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2023 Pro4x
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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Ordered these yesterday for my 2015 Crew Cab, hope they ride good. Got a fantastic price at Shock Surplus, all 4 for $316.70 including free shipping. Anyone interested go to their website and use the discount code NEWSHOCKS! for 10% off your entire order. Will report back on ride after installed.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Well, after reading all the reviews it seems to be the go to shock for a stock truck. My truck has 95k miles on it and is real bouncy and rolley if that makes sense. I think anything is going to be an improvement over what I have now.
 
I just installed 5100’s on my 2012LE they are awesome but expect a little bounciness in the rear. Also if any suspension parts are worn which I doubt with a 2015 you will now notice those issues




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I wonder how noticeable the difference in ride harshness is, if you're already on 20" wheels, and you go to the 5100s? I suspect it's similar to the change for folks on 18s, who switch from OEM to Bilstein. Now, if you were OEM and 18, and you upgraded to 5100s and 20" wheels and tires, I'm sure you'd notice a much bigger difference.
 
I wonder how noticeable the difference in ride harshness is, if you're already on 20" wheels, and you go to the 5100s? I suspect it's similar to the change for folks on 18s, who switch from OEM to Bilstein. Now, if you were OEM and 18, and you upgraded to 5100s and 20" wheels and tires, I'm sure you'd notice a much bigger difference.


I owned three SE ‘s and now own an SL and to me the 20’s don’t ride as good as the 18’s. I think the ride is a lot rougher. I never once felt like I thought about the ride on my SE’s I owned. This SL though I still am not 100% happy with the ride even though I have replaced the shocks and struts, sway bar links, both front wheel hubs, and put new tires on. I am yet to replace the sway bar bushings and driver side lower ball joint that is a little loose. I have a bad feeling my ball joints/control arms are beat. My truck had 61,000 miles on it when I bought it and it was not used hard yet the shocks and struts were shot and the wheel hubs where shot. I find that really odd but it was a Massachusetts Trucks so tons of salt for sure.


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Discussion starter · #11 ·
I would argue the fact that it's a truck, and I don't care if it rides like a truck. What I'm trying to get rid of is all the body roll and wolloying that you get when going over a bump. My truck seems to twist and roll and that's what I'm trying to get rid of. Drove an Armada before buying the Titan and it was even worse.
 
First, I hear you, Noel, on the ride of 20s v. 18s. It all has to do with sidewall flex, and the shorter sidewalls of 20s just don't have the flex of the 18s. You might look for a D load range tire for your SL and see if that helps with the ride any.

And I'm in the same boat as you, KC, regarding ride. I know I am driving a truck, and I expect it to ride like a truck. I just need it to be stable and predictable, and mine's starting to be slightly unpredictable, so I'm looking at new struts. The 5100s are likely what you want/need, based on your description.
 
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Yeah my Cooper AT3 4S are only STD I don’t haul or trailer anything than normal. Biggest load I ever have is a bed full of mulch. If I ever am allowed to get a camper I will have to look into better tires. Thanks


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I am curious about these shocks as well....aren't they adjustable though? Can you maintain OEM ride height? I personally like how the OEM shocks/Struts ride. My Dad that had a 04 SE CC said my 15 SV CC 4x4 rides like a luxury car vs his truck. His had 18's my truck has the OEM 20's.

So that would be one fear of going aftermarket ride quality. Who makes the OEM shocks? KYB? They ride good to me so far...though I have had some really bad uneven tire wear with the factory Good Year SRA's even after several alignments. I'm currently in the market for new tires and plan on going with a A/T tire this time...

I know the OP says its a truck and he doesn't care how it rides? Why wouldn't you care? My truck rides very smooth stock and I wouldn't want to loose that just to say I have "Bilsteins" on my truck. Who cares right? Ride quality does matter.

One thing good about Bilsteins is the warranty...They were good for my cars of the past I have nothing against the brand, but on a 100% stock truck why not just stay with OEM? are the factory parts that much more expensive? Or just looking for something different?


Jeff
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
I am curious about these shocks as well....aren't they adjustable though? Can you maintain OEM ride height? I personally like how the OEM shocks/Struts ride. My Dad that had a 04 SE CC said my 15 SV CC 4x4 rides like a luxury car vs his truck. His had 18's my truck has the OEM 20's.

So that would be one fear of going aftermarket ride quality. Who makes the OEM shocks? KYB? They ride good to me so far...though I have had some really bad uneven tire wear with the factory Good Year SRA's even after several alignments. I'm currently in the market for new tires and plan on going with a A/T tire this time...

I know the OP says its a truck and he doesn't care how it rides? Why wouldn't you care? My truck rides very smooth stock and I wouldn't want to loose that just to say I have "Bilsteins" on my truck. Who cares right? Ride quality does matter.

One thing good about Bilsteins is the warranty...They were good for my cars of the past I have nothing against the brand, but on a 100% stock truck why not just stay with OEM? are the factory parts that much more expensive? Or just looking for something different?


Jeff
Well Jeff, I just bought my 2015 SL with 95k miles on it. When I go over a bump or high spot in the road I get this wollowy body roll in the truck. So my guess is at 95k miles the shocks are shot. Bilsteins are hands down a better shock over any OEM so that's why I went with the 5100's. Stock ride height is maintained since the springs control that not the shocks. And I seriously doubt ride quality will be affected a lot, but as long as that goofy body roll is gone I'm good. So feel free to go back to OEM's when you need them. So there ya go. :laugh:
 
Have had 5100'2 for a few months now...
'08 CC 4x4 LE LWB...
Definitely firmer and MORE control...

REALLY like'em...

Still have the dreaded front end pop...
Removed a 2" and installed a 1.5" leveling kit in front...
Upper Control Arms were SHOT and showed signs of bucket contact...replaced.
Front rotors and pads...
Sway bar bushings...
Tie rod ends...
Next is sway bar end links...

Hope this makes the pop go away !!!


Luckymann77
 
FYI if the 5100's seem too stiff for the rear, FOX 2.0 internal reservoir shocks are a fantastic upgrade for a bit more than the 5100's.

Have had 5100'2 for a few months now...
'08 CC 4x4 LE LWB...
Definitely firmer and MORE control...

REALLY like'em...

Still have the dreaded front end pop...
Removed a 2" and installed a 1.5" leveling kit in front...
Upper Control Arms were SHOT and showed signs of bucket contact...replaced.
Front rotors and pads...
Sway bar bushings...
Tie rod ends...
Next is sway bar end links...

Hope this makes the pop go away !!!


Luckymann77
Try PRG Delrin LCA spacers. You can notch (just cut a spot thats big enough for them to slide over the camber bolt) them and pop them in without disassembly of anything. Sometimes the LCA bushings wear out and allow forward to rear movement. The spacers take up the space, use a pry bar to move the LCA and pop the spacer in. It's cheap and easy.

google prg Delrin LCA spacer install and a couple write-ups should come up, i think on the older titan forum.
 
Does your 2015 have a rear sway bar ? I noticed this really helped kill the "floaty" turns. I also wondered why OEM shocks only seem to last 30k miles and what brand to use next.
 
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