i once found a web page on sound deadening that i can not find. :computern someone here might know where it is at. it shows all knids of deadening mats then he stick them to a sheet pan and throws it into the oven for a heat test and in the fridge for the cold to see what holds up best. it was a good bit of info i would like to re-read.
sound deadening?
debos titan
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yeah i have memphis amps and i love them so i will most likely go with a set of them. on the other side i was looking a cdt. i gotta keep it under 2 billz because i am gonna tint my windows also. i just have to finda place that does a good job doing tint. i did my old civic it was a pain in the arse and it looked like crap.
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:bang: i will leave window tint to the pros i learned my lesson:bang:
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so you think i would be better off gettin the comp speakers over the raamat.
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You need them both at the same timedebos titan said:
Install the mat when you install the speakers. I would not expect much Difference in the audio system with just Mat, but it would be a quieter ride. You need to install felt if you tint the front windows as well since there isn't any from the factory.
Another thing to think about is how you will power the new speakers since the stock HU is 2 ohm and most comps are 4 ohm, you can use a LOC (Line Output Converter) and amp or just get a new HU. Or new HU and amp :3eyes:
As you can see a simple improvement can add up fast.
Get a set of comps, some deadening and foam (if you really want to quiet the ride ensulite foam works better than deadener but does not dampen vibrations since it does not add much mass)
I'd suggest removing the factory plastic Baffle the 6x9 is mounted in and use it to design up an MDF adapter and mount that to the door with some dense weather striping tape to get a good seal and prevent vibration (if your sealing up the doors). Just need a Jigsaw and a pencil and place to work it doe snot take much time and gets rid of the factory "rattle trap" adapter for good.
for around 200 check out diamonds (as much as I hate to say it) or DLS MS6 (heard real good things about these they have magnesium cones). CDT's are ok from my experience but I have only heard their high end stuff.
Mount the tweeters in the dash if you want to keep it factory looking.
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i have an eclipse hu but it is not running any thing my speakers are running off of a memphis 75w at 4 ohm amp. it should push the comps ok. i will deaden before to long though.
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i am thinking of getting 2 rolls of raamat and a few yards of their foam for the floor. but i can only do one or the other for now. the tint is a must though.
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Justintoxicated said:You need them both at the same time
You need to install felt if you tint the front windows as well since there isn't any from the factory.
Another thing to think about is how you will power the new speakers since the stock HU is 2 ohm and most comps are 4 ohm, you can use a LOC (Line Output Converter) and amp or just get a new HU. Or new HU and amp :3eyes:
As you can see a simple improvement can add up fast.
Get a set of comps, some deadening and foam (if you really want to quiet the ride ensulite foam works better than deadener but does not dampen vibrations since it does not add much mass)
I'd suggest removing the factory plastic Baffle the 6x9 is mounted in and use it to design up an MDF adapter and mount that to the door with some dense weather striping tape to get a good seal and prevent vibration (if your sealing up the doors). Just need a Jigsaw and a pencil and place to work it doe snot take much time and gets rid of the factory "rattle trap" adapter for good.
for around 200 check out diamonds (as much as I hate to say it) or DLS MS6 (heard real good things about these they have magnesium cones). CDT's are ok from my experience but I have only heard their high end stuff.
Mount the tweeters in the dash if you want to keep it factory looking.
are you talking about these
http://cgi.ebay.com/DLS-MS6A-6-5-2-...QitemZ250112645023QQihZ015QQcategoryZ32819QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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and is that a good price?
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Thats them, Not sure but the price looks a little high, I htink I was able to get them a while back for $160 shipped b ut not positive. Close enough though really, for $200 it's probably not going to get much better from reviews I have read (I have not heard these myself) I do like my Iridiums but they were 2x as much.debos titan said:
Damn he even has Nobelliums I'd love to trade up my iridiums for those
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...active_view_item&usedrule1=StoreCatToStoreCat&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget
his pictures kinda suck lol.
Better pictures on here http://www.infinitecaraudio.com/cgi-bin/icastore.cgi?user_action=detail&catalogno=IRIDIUM62
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If you want the Iridiums and can run active you'd be better off with the Morel setup. Morel active MW164 with 1" morel silk tweeters, same mids as DLS iridiums and better tweeters. I could get a set of those for 240 but no crossover.Justintoxicated said:Thats them, Not sure but the price looks a little high, I htink I was able to get them a while back for $160 shipped b ut not positive. Close enough though really, for $200 it's probably not going to get much better from reviews I have read (I have not heard these myself) I do like my Iridiums but they were 2x as much.
Damn he even has Nobelliums I'd love to trade up my iridiums for those
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...active_view_item&usedrule1=StoreCatToStoreCat&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget
his pictures kinda suck lol.
Better pictures on here http://www.infinitecaraudio.com/cgi-bin/icastore.cgi?user_action=detail&catalogno=IRIDIUM62
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You could do that, but I don't recomend active setups to people that don't know how to set them up. Hell I have not even gone active yet, too much work for me. Are you sure a 1 inch silk morel tweeter is better than the iridiums 1.1 inch? I love the laid back sound from the DLS tweeters, although I guess it's not for everyone. I have not hear the morel tweets but I have never heard bad things about Morel audio comps. Another amp would cost me more than the crossovers to go active anyways and I would have to mount it someplace. Plus then I have to figure out exactly what frequency I'm corossing each speaker over at etc...I don't even fully understnad how you do it without an RTA or some other equipment to give you some readouts. Maybe with an expensive crossover it would be easier, I don't trust the crossovers on my amps that much.t22a80 said:
The MS6 seem to me like they would be good in yoru price range, but you never told us what kid of taste your have, or what music you listen to! DLS comps are known for their laid back natural sound. If like you really loud highs etc then these are not the components for you.
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I dont think going active is as hard as people thing. You just need to know the crossover points and have an amp with good crossovers built in.
As far as the Morel setup, I'm just going by what "my speaker guy" told me. He was running a active morel setup but switched it out to an active setup using the new CDT drivers.
Thats one reason I like the CDT's is because you can choose between silk (laid back) Aluminum (middle of the road) or Titanium (more in your face) to get the sound you like.
As far as the Morel setup, I'm just going by what "my speaker guy" told me. He was running a active morel setup but switched it out to an active setup using the new CDT drivers.
Thats one reason I like the CDT's is because you can choose between silk (laid back) Aluminum (middle of the road) or Titanium (more in your face) to get the sound you like.
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wish there was a way to test these comps i guess i will have to go find a local shop:3eyes: . and keep us posted on the raamat.:eyebrow:
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I listened to the CDT Euros in fiberglass pods when I met with some guys who wanted to checkout my DLS 6.2's and another guys 6.3's they were not really that impressive to me. They were ok but sounded a bit flat and harsh to me...Maybe they would sound better out of pods I don't know, but even this guy liked the my DLS comps install in factory locations and I was not running active. Just my experience, and my only experience with CDT Comps. So it's kind of a circle in my head now lol.t22a80 said:
Sounds like your guy feels CDT> MOREL > DLS?
But myself I found msyelf to that DLS > CDT Euros (Titanium tweeters)
Thats a pretty big difference LOL. DLS definately don't have the tweeters of the CDT's they are much more laid back than the ti ones I listened to. But I am partial to Silk tweeters myself. However the DLS mid seemed much better than the CDT I listenend to as well. So I have no plans on switch to CDT Euros anytime soon, and was happy I didn't buy them because I almsot did before I got the Iridiums. I'd consider Nobelliums, Rainbows, or Dynaudio, focal though if I wanted to try something different though
. your right though it is nice to be able to select the type of tweeter, but I would be picking silk anyways so no big deal for me!The DLS tweets sound good installed in the dash stock locations with a little TA. They are very directional. Actualy the CDT's sounded as good maybe better than the DLS 6.3 install I heard, the guy had some major cancelation going on in his little mazda miada (spelling?) DLS tweeters are very directional from my experience.
All in all it's probably all in the install I guess. They are all good brands.
I guess going active is not that hard but I would imagine you would be best off with a 4 channel amp with 1 high pass crossover for each set of chanels as well as seperate gain adjustments. Or just 2, 2 channel amps...But with comps you just mount the crossover and select a setting, done.
I need another roll of BXT for my roof so I'd be down for good prices as well.
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Here is what I know about the CDT comps. The Eurosports suck for most music, especially the older ones from a couple years ago, they were designed to be for people who really like jazz music. However CDT has just released a new line of mid drivers that are night and day better than even the old HD series and those were very nice comps. The new M6, 06, and 06+ have really impressive midbass and sound great. You can read more about them here.
http://www.cdtaudio.com/new_breed_drivers.htm
As far as tweeters if you like laid back you can buy the very smooth mellow silk version(thats what I run, 2 pairs actually one mounted down in the door on axis with the mid and the other up in the A-pillar). Or like I said before, pick from Aluminum, or Titanium. Or get all three and swap them out using the same bracket. Check it out.
http://www.cdtaudio.com/stagefront_review_10.html
The other thing is you can get great deals on some of the lower end CDT stuff that IMO is way better than any big box brand.
Yes using a xover that is designed for a comp setup is WAY easier. I even do it because like you I dont want to mess with it.
I believe that DLS are made by Morel (but dont quote me on that)
The bottom line is whatever you like best in your budget is what really matters. You could spend a small fortune on this stuff.
http://www.cdtaudio.com/new_breed_drivers.htm
As far as tweeters if you like laid back you can buy the very smooth mellow silk version(thats what I run, 2 pairs actually one mounted down in the door on axis with the mid and the other up in the A-pillar). Or like I said before, pick from Aluminum, or Titanium. Or get all three and swap them out using the same bracket. Check it out.
http://www.cdtaudio.com/stagefront_review_10.html
The other thing is you can get great deals on some of the lower end CDT stuff that IMO is way better than any big box brand.
Yes using a xover that is designed for a comp setup is WAY easier. I even do it because like you I dont want to mess with it.
I believe that DLS are made by Morel (but dont quote me on that)
The bottom line is whatever you like best in your budget is what really matters. You could spend a small fortune on this stuff.
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