Just in case anyone here is a synthetic nut like myself I don't think I would recommend trying it out in your new Titan. At 1000 miles I drained the factory fill oil and put Mobil 1 10W-30 in it. Yesterday at 2000 miles I dumped it out and put Havoline 5W-30 in it. Why would I waste expensive Mobil 1???? Glad you asked........ever since I put it in the engine it sounded louder at idle, more valve train noise than what it did with the factory fill oil. No noticeable gas mileage drop or other noises during acceleration or cruise, just a whole lot of valve train noise at idle. Now that I put good old dino juice back in it all is quiet at idle now. I guess I may have to change my views concerning synthetics with what I know now concerning the Titan. I'll be picking up a couple of cases of Chevron Supreme, which by the way does awesome in oil sample tests.
Just Drained The Mobil 1
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Changed my oil at 2100 miles and went with Mobil 1 5W-30. Haven't noticed any increased valve train noises or any other noises at all. Even went with Mobile 1 75-140 in the differential, of course I didn't read the diff cover until after I read the message stating to use only 75w140 synthetic. So I assume it had synthetic from the factory? Oh well, there was alot of stuff on the magnet anyway.
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Chevrolet must like Mobil 1 as it comes in all Corvettes
i used the mobil1 in 3 oil changes thus far and have had no adverse issues, noises or shakes.
i've used mobil1 syn for the past 3 years in all my vehicles. over 100000 miles combined. none leak oil or nothing. the noise some people detect might be because the factory oil comes loaded with break in additives.
i've used mobil1 syn for the past 3 years in all my vehicles. over 100000 miles combined. none leak oil or nothing. the noise some people detect might be because the factory oil comes loaded with break in additives.
I have used Mobile 1 in Jeeps and Fords since it came out, I swear by it. My Titan only has 26 miles on it but I am still planning on running Mobile 1 in it. I used to run 8k on changes in my F150 5.4 and the oil was not even black, if I went 10k it looked like normal oil.
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Did my first oil change at 1500, used Castrol 5w-30 dino oil, then changed again at 3000 with Mobil 1 5w-30. I change every 3000 now (I know, a little overkill), I've got 14k on her now, no noises, dirty oil, nada. Oh, and I also only use Napa Gold filters, as I have read quite a few independant studies, and these filters are far superior to oem and quite a bit better than most aftermarket. To me they're worth the extra $2 (4.99 for Fram & most other good ones vs. 6.99 for the Napa Gold). I'll try to post some of the study results if I can.
i used royal puple and mobil 1 in my dodge i have used mobil 1 in other vehicles as well, i think full synthetic oils are much better also i gained 1 mpg in my dodge when i switched to synthetic i traded it at 100kmiles never any problems....i have almost 20k on my titan and i will be switching to a full synthetic....i might try amsoil...just my .02
New guy here. I have some info on this that might apply.
In addition to my new 2007 Nissan Titan SE 4 x 4 I have a 2002 Camaro SS 6-Speed. FUN car. Anyway, the synthetics have MUCH less sliding resistance than dino oil. In my Camaro, I ran dino break-in oil for 4,000 miles (Valvoline 5W-30) and switched to Mobil 1 ... absolutely NO issues.
The guys in the club that switched before 1,000 miles all had the same experience as the thread author ... more noise and rattle. Their engines simply weren't broken-in.
I now have 62,000 miles on the Camaro and it runs better than new with NO noise, no oil consumption, and no issues at all. I have a nice spreadsheet with all the oil informnation in it, and the synthetics are WAY better than dino oil at Viscosity Index, Flash Point, Pour Point, % Ash, and have different requirements for % Zinc. Some have NO Zinc at all.
By way of comparison, Mobil 1 15W-50 has a VI of 170 (higher is better), Flash Point of 470°F (higher is better), Pour Point of -55¯F (lower is better).
10E-30 Valvoline All Climate has VI of 130, Flash of 410, and Pour of -26.
From the point of view of engine life when racing on a road course (my old hobby), synthetic oil AFTER break-in is the way to go.
Nissan has a history of using very hard steel in their cylinder liners and rings (as far back as the Datsun B210) and needs a significant break-in - sometimes as much as 10,000 miles.
Just my 2 cents worth, and probably worth what you paid for it ...
I live in Irvine and would like to get with some 4 x 4 people on Sundays if anyone is up for it.
In addition to my new 2007 Nissan Titan SE 4 x 4 I have a 2002 Camaro SS 6-Speed. FUN car. Anyway, the synthetics have MUCH less sliding resistance than dino oil. In my Camaro, I ran dino break-in oil for 4,000 miles (Valvoline 5W-30) and switched to Mobil 1 ... absolutely NO issues.
The guys in the club that switched before 1,000 miles all had the same experience as the thread author ... more noise and rattle. Their engines simply weren't broken-in.
I now have 62,000 miles on the Camaro and it runs better than new with NO noise, no oil consumption, and no issues at all. I have a nice spreadsheet with all the oil informnation in it, and the synthetics are WAY better than dino oil at Viscosity Index, Flash Point, Pour Point, % Ash, and have different requirements for % Zinc. Some have NO Zinc at all.
By way of comparison, Mobil 1 15W-50 has a VI of 170 (higher is better), Flash Point of 470°F (higher is better), Pour Point of -55¯F (lower is better).
10E-30 Valvoline All Climate has VI of 130, Flash of 410, and Pour of -26.
From the point of view of engine life when racing on a road course (my old hobby), synthetic oil AFTER break-in is the way to go.
Nissan has a history of using very hard steel in their cylinder liners and rings (as far back as the Datsun B210) and needs a significant break-in - sometimes as much as 10,000 miles.
Just my 2 cents worth, and probably worth what you paid for it ...
I live in Irvine and would like to get with some 4 x 4 people on Sundays if anyone is up for it.
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Am I understanding this correctly? You've only done 1 oil change in 47K Miles?dv3andrs said:
I knew a fellow (he raced a top alcohol rail!) that never changed the oil in his Chevy Dually, just sold it when it waas tired!
I'm still doing 5W30 M1 in both my vehicles, a 06 Titan and a 04 Malibu. UOA on the Titan, from Blackstone is excellent, but I wouldn't claim some other brand wouldn't be too. What works, works, that is all that matters.
I use Mobile 1 Extended Performance in all 3 of my vehicles and AMSOIL semi-syn in my motorcycle. I change the oil around 8k miles as the EP oil is supposed to be rated for up to 15k miles. I am also using the Mobile 1 EP filters but I haven't seen any data on them yet.
My last truck (2002 F150 4.6L) had 120K fairly hard miles on it when I traded it for the Titan and I never had 1 problem with it (Except for it being underpowered). I also used Mobile 1 EP in it and I changed the oil every 10k miles. The oil was always very clean (honey colored) when it was changed. It never burned oil either.
I think I will to the oil analysis at the next change just to see what it says.
My last truck (2002 F150 4.6L) had 120K fairly hard miles on it when I traded it for the Titan and I never had 1 problem with it (Except for it being underpowered). I also used Mobile 1 EP in it and I changed the oil every 10k miles. The oil was always very clean (honey colored) when it was changed. It never burned oil either.
I think I will to the oil analysis at the next change just to see what it says.
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if you change now i would keep it to dino pil. really make sure iits broken in fully and the rings have COMpletly seated to the honed cylinders. synthetic is great but not on new motors. personally i waited till 3rd changeWhoJakeV said:
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The Napa Gold filters are in fact Wix, the Napa Select, Silver & NASCAR filters are not though. Although you pay a little more for the Gold, its all I use. If you have any question about the quality of the Gold (Wix) filters, take a look at the air filter (Napa Gold p/n 6213) for our trucks, compare it side by side to your stock filter or to almost any competetors "premium" filter, you'll see that there is much more surface area (many more pleats) and the actual filter paper is a tighter weave for better filtration. They use the a very similar concept in their oil filters. Hope this helps.hesham1 said:
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Just in case anyone cares...
Wal-mart now stocks Mobil One oil filters. M1-110. You can get a 5 qt jug of M1 5w30 truck/suv for $20.00 and the filter for $10.00.
Wal-mart now stocks Mobil One oil filters. M1-110. You can get a 5 qt jug of M1 5w30 truck/suv for $20.00 and the filter for $10.00.
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Thanks for the info. I've used this filter before. It's kinda like a "stretched" version of the OEM filter.coachditka said:
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Is that actually a bigger/longer filter than the OEM one that fits the titan ???
If so, than Wooooooooo Focking Hoooooooo !!!!!!!!!!!!!
If so, than Wooooooooo Focking Hoooooooo !!!!!!!!!!!!!
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