Do I have to be stopped to engage/disengage 4WD? Nope. You do have to be stopped and in Neutral to engage 4Lo.

4LO is for less than 15 MPH, correct? It can be used for faster than that but I don't usually go more than that. The owner's manual says 31 MPH max.

4HI shouldn't go over 55MPH? The owner's manual says not to exceed 65.5 MPH. That last .5 MPH is VERY important.

Tranny in "D" or some other gear? "D" is fine. I keep it in 5th (aka "D") unless I'm towing or descending a hill.

Should I engage 4WD once a week (month, etc) to make sure everything is working OK? No need. The front drivetrain is always engaged. The transfer case is the disconnect. So as long as the Titan is moving the front axle components are getting fluid.

Any special maintenance that I need to do? Front differential and transfer case need the fluid changed. Check your manual for the interval. I do mine about every 15K.

I have a 3500# travel trailer that I will need to back up a rather steep incline at a campground that we frequent. Can I use 4WD (Lo or Hi) while in reverse? Sure. I do that sometimes to back up into my driveway. However, see my last comment below.

The indicator on the dash blinks for several seconds after I engage and disengage 4WD. Is that normal? What going on during this? Is it OK to drive or should I wait until the blinking stops? That's normal. The transfer case isn't the smartest/fastest around. It can take a bit. If you find that you can't disengage 4Hi try turning the steering wheel back and forth while driving forward. That trick works for me.

Never, ever pull in reverse with 4x4 (lo or hi). The front differential is not strong enough for that. The hooks on the front are for pulling YOU out, not for you pulling someone else out.

 

HRTKD hit the nail on the head. You can go faster in 4Hi, but I wouldn't suggest for long periods of time.

Also, KEEP TURNING ON PAVEMENT IN 4WD TO THE ABSOLUTE MINIMUM (preferably none). This will result in axle bind and your transfer case breaking apart.

 

Thanks guys!!! I've had my (new to me) truck for a week and am still trying to figure it all out! Like I said earlier; I've never had a 4WD before...and this is my 6th truck (plus a 1998 Ford Explorer). I figured it was time to get serious about this truck thing!

 

Good tips.

I'll add an old trick that works too.
If you ever are pulling something out in 4WD and need to go back to 2WD,
stop, goto to 2WD and then backup about 10 feet.
The transfer case will easily disconnect, and then off you go in 2WD.
A good example might be if you are pulling a boat out.

 

Seriously on the pavement/ reverse pulling in 4wd?
I plan on using this truck as it's needed, does the TC just break apart inside or what? Would think Nissan could have something strong enough there.

Good info to keep in mind.

 

It's the front differential that grenades when pulling in reverse.

 

The issue with pavement is a physics issue, not a strength of materials issue. On dry pavement, your tires will normally have near zero slippage. Based on how the truck moves, and the fact that when turning, the left and right tires spin at different rates, as do the front and rear tires (due to different distances traveled), the truck must accommodate the slippage. Now, under normal circumstances, the differential in each axle handles the difference in rotation of the left and right tires. But there is no differential in the transfer case (and you don't want one there, either...), so there is no mechanical method to absorb the different rotation rates and distance of travel for the front versus the rear axle, so you get transfer case binding. If bound up enough, the weakest link will break. That may be a u-joint, or some gear in the t-case, or the t-case housing (though that would take some serious binding under heavy power). So the rule is, dry pavement=two wheel drive. Can't imagine why you'd need four wheel drive on dry pavement anyway, other than some very specific circumstances (which likely allow you to drive in roughly a straight line), but hey, do what you gotta do.

Pulling in reverse stresses the mounts on the front diff, from what I understand, and can cause it to flex or break loose. Once the alignment of the diff and the various connected driveshaft/halfshafts gets out of whack, bad things happen and it gets expensive quick. Just don't pull anything in reverse. It's not a common issue anyway, so you shouldn't have much trouble.

Beyond that, you want to be sure you check out the various things about a Titan which you need to know, like how it might be beneficial to spend a few bucks and mod your rear axle vent to keep the pressure better equalized. And how you might consider changing out the clamps on your transmission lines where they go to the cooler up front (though my line actually busted and now I'm awaiting a new trans, so clamps weren't my issue, but have been others' problem). Just review a lot of the stickies and consider what you can do while under warranty versus what you want to put off until after Nissan gives up responsibility.

Oh, and as far as backing your trailer up a steep incline in 4Hi or 4Lo, should be fine, provided you're not making a hard turn in the process, as that will cause all sorts of binding in the transfer case as discussed above. Backing straight back in 4Lo will be a piece of cake, and you'll be amazed at how easily the T will move a load around in low range. Also, if you find yourself in steep hills/gullys and you need four wheel drive, an old trick is to drop into 4Lo, but then set the trans in 2 or 3, as it will still be plenty low enough to keep you moving with good traction, but won't apply as much torque to the wheels as 1st gear and you won't break loose as easily.

 

Not sure if it's the same on the 2014, but on my 2004 if you flip down the visor the 4x4 instructions are on the other side. They're well written and clear.

 

and the owers manual...few people read those these days though.


just don't use 4wd on dry pavement or pulling in reverse. it will blow up. thats all you need to know.:devil: