If your truck is running fine, I would honestly just leave it? If its not losing power or throwing codes I wouldnt go through the trouble to take it all apart again. Also, I dont think youd have to take the cylinder head cover off, seems like too much work for just some spark plugs. Gotta be an easier way for you if you do decide to wipe it off anyway.

 

Agreed, the thought of the plugs not getting full spark energy drives me crazy. Why spend the cheddar on E3s if I am not giving them full spark energy. :bangit:

Im thinking one of those trick socket U-Joint adapters will allow me to clear the brake booster and allow the socket wrench extension to slide down the tube.

Yea, lol removing the valve cover was a lot of work with the wire ties, PCV hoses, EVAP hoses, millions of wires, and about 12 bolts to get out of the way. :tongue:

 

I was thinking that the grease would just burn up but maybe not. Check this out.

It can withstand high temperatures, making it an ideal substance for use in engine compartments and other similar locations. Most standard brands of dielectric grease are rated to 392° F (200° C), and many can operate at up to 500° F (260° C).

 

About getting past the brake booster. Just use two short extensions ... slide the short extension with the socket down in there, then attach the 2nd short extension and then attach the ratchet.

 

Thats the trick I use along with a swivel sparkplug socket. I wouldn't worry about as long as your T isn't missing or throwing any codes. It will probably just burn off if those numbers are correct. Also Dielectric grease IS a conductive grease guys.

 

Thanks import2nr, I had the exact same thought last night and will do just that today.

bfrank, that was the link where I learned that dielectric grease is not electrically conductive. So wierd that the box says apply to the terminals but then says maintain metal to metal contact.

Thanks guys, Ill take care of that mess up after I rotate my tires. :read:

 

So wierd that the box says apply to the terminals but then says maintain metal to metal contact.

Probably referencing battery terminals.

 

From my understanding, dielectric grease is really more about displacing moisture and dirt to help prevent corrosion and poor connections. The metal contacts will make contact through displacing the grease and remain clean and effective for longer with the grease surrounding it. As long as the grease isn't so thick that it is keeping the plugs from maintaining a proper connection (which since the truck is running fine, it obviously isn't), you should be fine.

Is Dielectric Grease Conductive? | eHow.com

Derek

 

Well I went back and cleaned up the plugs...I went out and purchased a 2nd 3in socket extension and it worked like a charm...the extension I was using before was too long to clear the brake booster as previously mentioned. Truck runs great.

Thanks for the input yall

 

So was there a noticeable difference after cleaning them off ? Did you re apply the grease where it was supposed to go?

 

Did you re apply the grease where it was supposed to go?

Yeah, like on your trailer wire connectors.

 

No, I didn't even bother with the stuff. My old plugs were clean and Nissan has seals on the coil packs to keep crud out. There was a tiny difference in that she idled smoother and throttle response was a little bit more snappy. (idk if it was in my head or whatever but seems to me the difference was almost too small to mention)

For those wondering, the truck has just about 60,000 miles on the clock. I decided to replace the plugs now as the truck has is forced to run on fuel she doesn't like (oxygenated gasoline 10% fuel methanol) living where I do, it is impossible to escape this crap gasoline. Nissan says not to use it but I unfortunately have no choice.

For those unfamiliar with "oxygenated" gasoline, the refinery adds anywhere between 5%-15% "fuel methanol" to the gasoline, effectively adding chemical oxygen to the fuel which supposedly reduces emissions in internal combustion engines. My truck hates the stuff in the winter, she becomes reluctant to start when the mercury drops, but thus far nothing I can't handle! :eyebrow: Shes a BEAST!

 

Did you notice any of the grease left on the plugs before you cleaned them?

 

Yes there was a significant amount of grease left on the spark plug connection. Now was it enough to inhibit the flow of energy from the coil to the plug? Im not sure...If the grease is indeed not electrically conductive the energy probably arced through the grease to the plug, or it just found a dry spot on the connection and used that.

No, I never reapplied the grease, even the way your supposed to use it lol. The stock plugs were clean, and the repair manual does not warrant dielectric grease to be used on the plugs, the rubber seals on the coil packs do a great job of keeping it clean.

 

Hey everyone, great news!

Well today when I was putting around town I wanted to see if the E3 plugs do indeed give better throttle response and a little bit more power...

I tell you what, from a dead stop I pushed the throttle to about 1/2 maybe a lil more and tripped the tires a lot eaiser than before...stock engine except K&N filter element (not intake kit) and the E3 plugs.

I recommend the E3 plugs to any Titan owner. Great stuff. :redblob"