So... I took everything out (Pic 1) and started over with the mounting and routing I had in place.

I got rid of the slack, and ran flex-conduit (Pic 2) on the alternator lead and the ground wire.

Then routed into the factory flex conduit with the lines to their exit points below the P-side front door. I took 1'2" particle board and made a console where I mounted a 5-slot fuse box, the toggle for my bed light (pic 3), and a voltage meter (pic 4)

Currently I am half-done..roughly. I still need to install the isolator switch and build the second half of the cover, but it's looking far better and is plumbed up much better. Will add as I progress.

 

Wow, this is cool.

 

1/2" particle board that should read. LOL. Quarter after 02:00 and here I am, debating to get going on the other panel. Just swapped out the ceiling fan in the bedroom so I'm feeling..'wiry'. 1'2" particle board indeed... don't think I have screws long enough for that.

 

More Progress!
Well, I got to looking at my plywood panel and didn't like it, so I took measurements and of course, started over again.:devil:

I used the original as a mock-up, and dug around until I found an old NO OUTLET road sign that came from who knows where. I ran down and picked up a set of carbide hole-saws, and a hand seamer and was in business!

I definitely prefer the clean look of the aluminum panel vs the plywood one.

I also added a spot to mount a double 12V outlet because you can never have too many of those. Also, it nicely fills the space left open for the lid-latch on the toolbox.

Next I took some adhesive-backed, black rubber diamond-plate to face the whole thing and trimmed it up for the fuse-box, toggles, and gauge. Which I installed.

.

I jumped the light for the volt-meter downstream of the switch for the bed-light because I don't want it to stay on, and if it's dark enough to need the gauge lit, then chances are I'll have that light on anyway. The bed light is the bottom left toggle, the top left is for the 12V outlets, and the right toggle is for my GPI transfer pump.

The setup!

And all lit up

Added another securement for the battery as well and re-routed my leads too. I left the positive wires from the terminal clamp exposed so when I add the second panel, and all the goodies for the headache rack, I can tap right in to hot lines and run leads to the fuse-box.

This, folks, is what happens when you end up getting off work early!

 

Nice so far, thanks for sharing!!

Currently my Titan bed wire is all a gnarly mess (looks like spaghetti...).

Mostly I'm just seeing what works so far, then I'll clean it up. Not sure on mounting/routing locations yet.

I've got a deep cycle battery w/a fuse running to a solar controller.

I have a boat power outlet which I'll drill/mount into the fiberglass for the solar panel wire. I'm not mounting the panel, as the roof will be flipped when camped. This way I can just plug it into the side, not run the wire through a window or out the tailgate.

Plus I figure it'll give more options ie park in shade, run the panel out in sun etc.

The solar controller has a single out for accessories, which I ran to a fuse panel.

My accessories are:

2 led lamps inside my Flippac w extra cigarette type sockets.

2 flood lights high mounted rear (relayed to the bed lamp & also w/a dimmer & strobe function).

2 boat cigarette type sockets to be mounted wherever I figure out mounting the fuse plate.

My biggest draw will likely be my fridge at 3-4A, next the flood lamps at 2A (and too danged bright at that! Dimmed down they only sip electrons...).

 

Yeah. A big reason I chose to mount in my toolbox is because I have my bed set up so that both toolboxes and my transfer tank can all be removed and replaced in short order using just an adjustable wrench and a screwdriver. With the solar panel mounted on the toolbox, and the battery mounted inside of it, this makes it very convenient. The front toolbox is on j-hooks, the transfer tank held in place with turnbuckles to the factory tie-downs, and the rear toolbox with turnbuckles through the rear drain holes with big washers backing them up under the bed..

Here in about five minutes, I'll be starting on the second panel. Get pics up later. Thanks for the interest.

 

five minutes..35 hours.. same same right?

So I finally got the Isolator switch installed, along with it's own little mini panel. Had a few other things going on at the same time but here's the latest addition.

Spent the est of the day working on my 'alien' lights as my daughter calls them, repairing a shower, chasing little kids, painting stuff under the hood, and starting on the aluminum box to house my air-lift compressor. Further progress is waiting on the airbag mounting brackets some awesome member here gave me a killer deal on to arrive.:devil:

 

A couple minor tweaks to the panels and such. with a little better pic of how it's set up. Including the upgraded switch that can actually handle the power draw on my diesel transfer pump without melting (Far Left)

That was before the re-wire. I took all the leads running from the truck itself, and ran them to a flat 4 tow harness connector to streamline removing the toolbox when I need to for hauling or what have you. It's set up so that when unplugged, the exposed pin on the truck end runs to nothing more than a grounding point on the frame, so it can lay there and bleed without causing pretty sparkles inside the bed.

I streamlined the wiring as well, did away with the tap connectors and soldered all the tips on the leads and blade connections rather than just crimping them. First my work lights stopped turning on with the backing lights as they were relayed to do, then the driver's side work light stopped working completely. i attempted to trace and troubleshoot and came to the conclusion that I must have been drinking 90proof when I wired it up last time, and was rather amazed it EVER WORKED AT ALL. But a few hours with the iron and some new wires after work Monday and it's in good shape with everything functioning properly. Only thing left is to re-connect the lead to the alternator which will wait until some of this muck on the ground dries out or freezes over.

It's been slow in coming, but I should get the next stage in the toolbox done in the next week or two: Mounting and installing the compressor and filtered box next to the battery and the controller between the panels.

 

Did you say you ran a 16g wire to the Alternator??? At that distance it need to be at least 8ga to charge (if you run a battery isolator (not isolation switch) or at least a 4 ga. If you are not using an isolator. 4 ga would be what I suggest reguardless. Also your ground should be upgraded to the same size as you run. Also you really need a cover on the Positive battery terminal to keep anything from getting against it and shorting out. Especially in your tool box. It looks nice tho and I am glad to see your using a good battery.

 

At the moment, I don't have the alternator lead hooked up, and it's just a simple D/C switch to separate the two. I've had advice both ways, but you are correct. The alternator lead has obviously been overheating as the insulation on it is crispy and brittle, it did however work perfectly for over a year, so I can see both sides. I'm planning on using some good 4ga I have in the garage for the new pos lead. As to the ground, please explain why precisely I should upgrade that. I'm learning all this as I go along through trial and error so the input and feedback is appreciated. I would agree with you on the pos terminal cover, except I would have to roll my truck for something to get on top of it. ATM the items on that side are in a box behind the battery and after I mount the compressor housing there will be an aluminum sheet compartmentalizing the third of the passenger side from the rest of the toolbox so items will be a complete non-issue.

 

At the moment, I don't have the alternator lead hooked up, and it's just a simple D/C switch to separate the two. I've had advice both ways, but you are correct. The alternator lead has obviously been overheating as the insulation on it is crispy and brittle, it did however work perfectly for over a year, so I can see both sides. I'm planning on using some good 4ga I have in the garage for the new pos lead. As to the ground, please explain why precisely I should upgrade that.

You've just been lucky about the wires. You should have the same size because to charge the battery you need a complete circuit. The current flows from the alternator, to the battery, to the frame and back to the alternator completing a circuit. Yes, you have some current flowing to your devices but during charging most of it is following that path. There are plenty of guides online explaining what size you need for both and why.

 

The battery terminal cover will keep it from shorting if you are working in there and drop a wrench or screwdriver in there. Just a safety thing and they don't cost much.

The ground lead should always be at least as large as the positive to keep voltage drop down.

Your alternator can put out 150amps. So under load or if the battery is dead the charge lead could have to carry that much.

Also, and I cannot stress how important this is, the charge leadust be fused with 18" of the connection to the battery and its connection on the front. Otherwise if you have a short ( from a wreck or whatever) you will likly have a fire..

 

But.. that's the perfect place for a fire.. right next to my diesel tank

You're no fun at all

Seriously, thanks for the info. I have most all I need to set that up. And if I'm working by that battery, It's D/C..because it means I'm wiring something else up.

 

Btw. Your work looks good
I wasn't trying to be a no it all, just trying to help

 

To touch on what the other guys suggested...an isolator will isolate your remote battery on low voltage. So if your out there in the middle of the oil field and a gila monster or some other critter crawls in your toolbox and winds up between some positive terminal and ground you don't come back to a totally dead starting battery. Boats and RV's will put isolators between their house bank and starting bank for that reason. Allows charging two systems from one alternator.

 

thanks for the answers and input. I'm not taking any of this as 'know it all' or 'you suck'.

Like I said, this is a learning experience for me and like the rest of the truck, a work in progress. Last night I made a new pos lead for the alternator to the aux battery and plan to have my 4GA lead and ground put in Sunday, with the compressor box and controller added to the toolbox if I scrape together the time as we have an R&R family trip planned to the Glenwood hot springs tomorrow. As it sits now, the only charging source I have on my aux battery is the little solar panel, which works just fine for the work-lights when in reverse and to run the transfer pump for roughly 5 minutes every afternoon. I'll update as it comes along. Already a far cry from a chunk of black-painted plywood with a toggle switch and a voltage gauge cobbled into it.

 

The install looks great. You have a terrific setup and with the minor tweaks you're anticipating, you'll be set. The one remaining thing I would do with it is to put the battery inside a marine battery box, inside your toolbox. You should have clearance, I'd imagine. That would protect it from most types of shorting issues, as well as protect the rest of your toolbox from a battery rupture or some such. I'd also add a vent to the toolbox on the open side (meaning not jammed against a tank, pump, etc.) to give good ventilation while charging. You don't want hydrogen gas building up in your toolbox and finding a spark one afternoon.

Here is an example of the battery box:
Marine Battery Boxes, Boat Battery Boxes, Pontoon Battery Boxes : Attwood

A simple vent like this would work to evac fumes, too:
Plastic Half Moon Air Vent, White #10-065-1

There are a myriad of possible designs for a vent, though. Any RV or marine supply store should have something.

 

Thanks for the suggestion, however, the battery box is not going to be feasible as i have roughly 3/32" clearance between the battery tray and the filtered box for the compressor. The tray has already been cut down to the exact size of the battery so I have zero tolerance to go larger side to side with a box. Maybe when I replace that battery, but it's a 2011 and used to be part of a system that ran plunger lift telemetry RTUs before I got it in early 2013 and is still a charge holder (Love Interstate batteries). As to venting, that's a good point. I was planning on putting one on the rear of the toolbox near the filter for the compressor box. Add to that, I have several drain holes drilled in the bottom of the toolbox that were bored after the first time I left it open for a few hours during a rainstorm on location. That should do nicely I would think. It's hardly air tight as it is, but better ventilation shouldn't hurt as long as I don't take on rain or puddle splash.

 

Last night got the new 4ga lead and ground with plugs hardwired into the toolbox, and got the ground secured. Last ting I had to do was attach the new lead to the alternator. Apparently going for an eighth of a turn past snug on the nut was way to much, because it snapped off the entire tab from the alternator, Now with the T unable to charge, and the wife's suburban taking priority on repairs, it will be down for a while. The old lady's ride needs to be priority as it's the kids' shuttle and the school they attend has no bussing, whereas I have access to company trucks.. POS company trucks, but will get me to and from location.

F.U. Murphy!

 

Dang man that really sucks.

 

Just a case of life happening. Beating myself up pretty good for over-tightening the nut but It's a learning experience. Found an alternator for $128 with discounts and rebates so not too horrid. Been under there enough lately to know how I'm getting it out too...gonna be a tight *****, but doable in a few hours.
And once it's in, I'll have the system all set up and ready to install the compressor and controller and cut for a vent.
So for a few weeks, I'll be stuck in this 280,000 mile gmc lowrider POS, but at least I have transportation.

 

Yea. That is one complaint I do have. Who decided to put the alternator all the way down there??? Whenever I have to buy a new one cuz mine is the stock one from 04 I know there will be a lot of words said and I'll find the extent of my dirty vocabulary. May have to get my bud who has shorter arms to help me out cuz my long arms don't do well in tight spots.

 

lol.. i'm 6'2 and 270 lbs.. me and tight spots do NOT get along. Probably grab my camera and document the procedure, since I can't find a thread where it's been done with pics

 

Yea I'm 6 foot and 240. Was 220 but my wife has added few pounds with her cooking. I was crawling under there when first got the truck and was like who in the world decided to put the alternator down here. It's gonna be a pain unless you got a lift. Guess ramps will have to do tho. That's my only complaint mechanical wise on the Titan. Maybe they'll relocate the alternator on the new ones. Maybe.

 

They never think about a person having to replace anything on most vehicles. One truck I had your options for starter replacement were to drop the drive shaft for the 4X4 on the driver's side or wiggle the starter up past the steering column. to this day my uncle is still trying to figure out how I got that sucker out and back in without removing anything else.

 

I liked changing the starter on my 7.3IDI 89 F-350.... sit in the wheel well and unbolt it... even better, my wife did the wrenching, I played 'here hold this'
Simple truth, older designs are usually easier to work on.

 

So true.