No problems that I have ever heard of!

Chopps

 

Shounds like you have the Tick. Mine sounds like it is coming from the Passenger side. If you search for "tick" you will find a lot of info on it.

 

New to forum, hello everyone.
Finally took my 04 LE 4x4 stock with 72K miles in yesterday after hearing the awful sound for about a year. Yes, a year. It's very inconvenient to keep leaving the truck with them and since the sound decreased significantly after about 5 min. of run and the general power was there and the gas mileage did not change I figured I could put it off. Anyway, they reported I have a "manifold leak". It is a warranty repair. I'm assuming it's an 'exhaust' manifold leak after reading these posts.
Symptoms:
When cold or even after a short off time (park, run into store etc.) start truck and not notice any unusual sound at idle or even revving while in park. As soon as I accelerate away the sound is VERY evident. Sounds like it's running on 5 cylinders and the exhaust is 'packed' with a clickety clack and a banana stuck up the tail pipe. Hard to describe but awful sound. The acceleration is way off too. But hammer it with full throttle and break thru it and I can feel the old nice power kick in quickly. Release throttle and accelerate again and the sound is still there but less and also it provides proper power quicker than when I first started. So at least for mine the quote I heard above 'as it heats the leak seals' seems true. After about 5 minutes the accel and sound are pretty much normal although I can still sense (hear) it's not quite right.

History of my Titan problems:
Bed liner bubble, they fixed free with a full replacement of LineX
Brakes, brakes, brakes! 3 times fixed 3 times failed, I replaced them with $1500 of stillen.com brakes
and they still pulse somewhat under hard braking but head and shoulders above anything stock.
Squeaks rattles, everything from the dash to the door panels (after they did the required TSB wire mod). After 2 tries they finally cured the dash squeaks with probably 5 lbs. felt, who knows, glad it's gone.

I've got a love/hate relationship with this truck. I love the get-up-and-go it has and the way it drives. BTW, I've test drove most of the domestic equivalents (GM-Dodge etc.) that have higher power specs and none of them can punch it up like my ole 72K Titan. Have not tried the new Tundra. I'm spoiled by that Titan power!
I hate that Nissan did not step up to the plate and provide a properly engineered front brake replacement package. F__K them. Because of that I will never buy Nissan again and will do my best to discourage anyone else from doing so. Cheesy plastic knobs (on mine anyway)

Please excuse the rant and the looong post, I had to vent a little. I'd like to add a thanks for all the great info I'm finding here, I wish I'd found this site a long time ago.

T

 

^^^^I've had a few problems with my T, but not enough to say I'd never buy another. In fact, I'm looking forward to the dropping prices so that I can some day buy a used one!

 

New to forum, hello everyone.
Finally took my 04 LE 4x4 stock with 72K miles in yesterday after hearing the awful sound for about a year. Yes, a year. It's very inconvenient to keep leaving the truck with them and since the sound decreased significantly after about 5 min. of run and the general power was there and the gas mileage did not change I figured I could put it off. Anyway, they reported I have a "manifold leak". It is a warranty repair. I'm assuming it's an 'exhaust' manifold leak after reading these posts.
Symptoms:
When cold or even after a short off time (park, run into store etc.) start truck and not notice any unusual sound at idle or even revving while in park. As soon as I accelerate away the sound is VERY evident. Sounds like it's running on 5 cylinders and the exhaust is 'packed' with a clickety clack and a banana stuck up the tail pipe. Hard to describe but awful sound. The acceleration is way off too. But hammer it with full throttle and break thru it and I can feel the old nice power kick in quickly. Release throttle and accelerate again and the sound is still there but less and also it provides proper power quicker than when I first started. So at least for mine the quote I heard above 'as it heats the leak seals' seems true. After about 5 minutes the accel and sound are pretty much normal although I can still sense (hear) it's not quite right.

History of my Titan problems:
Bed liner bubble, they fixed free with a full replacement of LineX
Brakes, brakes, brakes! 3 times fixed 3 times failed, I replaced them with $1500 of stillen.com brakes
and they still pulse somewhat under hard braking but head and shoulders above anything stock.
Squeaks rattles, everything from the dash to the door panels (after they did the required TSB wire mod). After 2 tries they finally cured the dash squeaks with probably 5 lbs. felt, who knows, glad it's gone.

I've got a love/hate relationship with this truck. I love the get-up-and-go it has and the way it drives. BTW, I've test drove most of the domestic equivalents (GM-Dodge etc.) that have higher power specs and none of them can punch it up like my ole 72K Titan. Have not tried the new Tundra. I'm spoiled by that Titan power!
I hate that Nissan did not step up to the plate and provide a properly engineered front brake replacement package. F__K them. Because of that I will never buy Nissan again and will do my best to discourage anyone else from doing so. Cheesy plastic knobs (on mine anyway)

Please excuse the rant and the looong post, I had to vent a little. I'd like to add a thanks for all the great info I'm finding here, I wish I'd found this site a long time ago.

T

That sounds like what my truck has been doing for about a month now, I took it to the dealer but of coarse it was hot and they could not get the sound to replicate, I think because they were reving it in park instead of driving it, so they want me to leave it overnight whenever I get around to having enough time to let it.

 

Case closed for now... I just picked up truck and it sounds like it's old self, whew! Description says 'Manifold is cracked and causing leak'. Service receipt states they replaced 'Gasket-Exhaust' FP# 14036-7S001
and 'Manifold Exhaust' FP# 14002-7S00A. Cost $0.00 Maybe my faith in Nissan is a little better but I'll remain skeptical.

Edit- I was referring to this post (I have to put the dashes in the www part to post) w-w-w.titantalk.com/forums/titan-problems-dealer-service/69334-ticking-sound-sounds-like-exhasut-leak

T

 

Cracked exhaust manifolds on these engines is pretty common in my area. I probably replace 1-2 every couple months.

 

Cracked exhaust manifolds on these engines is pretty common in my area. I probably replace 1-2 every couple months.

TitanTech659, Is there any trend you think could be found here? That is to say,
Are they older models like mine (1rst-2nd year production)? Maybe drivers who could be more aggressive like me? I'm not talking burning rubber but when it's time to move I move. Weather related? Just curious...
About being negative towards Nissan, I may have been very lucky with past vehicles but I can say that I have never had a vehicle needing so much work before. Especially considering that it is barely past only 4 years old!

 

Well I can say that I haven't done many on 07's and none on 08's yet so I'm not really sure. The ones I have replaced usually look a little more "worn" in than others but here in Nebraska everyone's truck is usually used as a truck and not just a cruiser. Most Titans around here are owned by either farmers or construction workers.

 

Looks like there are a couple of these threads going.

Is this a warranty replacement job? I'm at 26K miles, so just out of the factory warranty but I do have a 5 year extended warranty that I need to get into my name (which is a pain-in-the-***, 4-6 week process).

 

They are a warranty item.

 

I have this problem!

I know this is an old thread but hopefully somone can help me. I recently brought my 2005 Titan in and the dealer told me I have the same issue a "cracked" or "leaking" exhaust manifold. But mine just hit 109k miles. It has been a PERFECT truck until now (I bought it at 80k). The dealer quoted me 3000 dollars to fix this. I am wondering if theres any way I could get this done cheaper... Also the delaer mentioned an "exhaust vent" being plugged with dirt and needing to be replaced. Any ideas what this vent is or how I can prevent it being plugged with dirt in the future? Also this doesnt seem to cause the truck any problems with how it runs, could this cause damage if its not fixed immediately? (I dont have 3000 dollars laying around)

-Thanks!!!
:bump:

 

never had to have the manifolds replaced out of warranty but i would expect them to be very expensive...mainly because the cats come with the manifolds as 1 piece. im sure a shop elsewhere could easily do the job for you for much less....just have to get the parts. dealer charges $95 per hour of labor here in CA. many others will say that headers and a tune might be the best option as eventually the manifolds will crack again. idk what exhaust vent they are talking about sorry. cracked manifolds dont need fixed immediately. but, it will start to kill you gas mileage, power, and could throw a check engine light i believe (mine never has)...not to mention it sounds like sh*t going down the road lol.

btw, that quote was for both sides right?

 

I am assuming it is for both sides I would have to look at the paperwork I got from the dealer again. BTW the reason I brought it in was because a check engine light came up. Also you said the manifolds will crack again? how long til the next set cracks and is there any way I can avoid that possibly with aftermarket manifolds??? Any help would be great

 

Get some headers and then go after market for the cats to pass emissions?

 

$3000 seems kind of high. Doug Thorley long tube headers around $600 shipped, Uprev $500, catted Berk B-pipes $375, Nissan gaskets block to header $50, JBA catback $350, CAI (varies, say $200), install $700 = $2775 w/ performance gain and bow to stern new exhaust and you are still under dealer price for only oem manifolds.

I dunno about "exhaust vent plugged with dirt". Maybe talking about the evap canister valve, as there is a TSB on that.

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/att...-discussion/71506d1231541328-evap-vent-control-valve-replacement-ntb06-095b.pdf

 

So, heres another question for you, I have a buddy that is a diesel mechanic and has just agreed to replace the manifolds for me, And I will probably replace the whole exhaust system as there is a section that fell off just after the flange on the muffler. ANYWHO... I live in North Dakota and there is no emmisons testing or anything here so, I looked around and is seems the aftermarket replacements dont usually come with cats attached to manifolds as they come stock. So do I have to replace the cats or can I just skip that pricey item? (I am no mechanic so that might be a dumb question)

Also, is there anything we should be aware of before embarking on this project?

Thanks for all your help!! I really appreciate it.

 

Careful with the exhaust that fell off. There is an expensive wire harness in the vicinity that can get melted, causing lots of problems.

There is a forward pair of sensors that will go in the bungs provided in the headers. There is an aft pair of sensors that goes in the oem B-pipes. A few people run headers w/o cats and they may use spark plug defoulers to space the aft sensors a bit out of the exhaust stream to avoid throwing codes. With headers, you typically need to run Uprev to correct the AFR. It might also be able to turn off the codes generated from the absence of cats. Hopefully somebody that knows for sure can respond. I run long tube headers (no primary cats) with Magnaflow 94035 cats in B-pipes and it passes sniffer emissions. Walker makes bolt up B-pipes w/o cats, although you can just have pipe welded up at a muffler shop to replace the factory B-pipes.

Thing to be aware of: There is a steering linkage shaft in the vicinity of the driver side wheel well that often gets disconnected for clearance purposes when installing headers. Do not turn the steering wheel with that shaft disconnected or you will break the spiral electrical cable in the steering wheel.

Here is a post about avoiding codes w/o cats: http://www.titantalk.com/forums/tit...an-performance-modifications/129321-header-install-prep-work-2.html#post2394172

PS: Does your handle refer to the knife company?

 

Thanks for all the help these things will come in handy and hopefully we dont mess anything up! lol.

p.s. Not really, I started using this as my gamer "tag" along time ago and it wasnt until later that I realized there was a knife company under the same name. (Im a big knife guy so I was pleased)