Great job!

Thread stuck and moved to "How To" forum.

 

Thanks! Hopefully this well help some folks getting ready to install theirs!

 

Great post.

 

Excellent write up, thanks for taking the time to do that.

 

Stupid question, but why do you change this out with a new one? What is it's purpose, and is there a generic interval that should be followed?

Thanks for the post and pics regardless.

 

Stupid question, but why do you change this out with a new one? What is it's purpose, and is there a generic interval that should be followed?

It's part of the emissions control system.
When it fails or is failing the ECU will throw a code (MIL* on).
Search here for "Gross EVAP Leak."
Mine was on its way out at about 70kmi. It'd throw the code, and sometimes it would eventually reset by itself and sometimes I'd reset it. It finally stayed on.
I pulled it, cleaned it, soaked in all manner of penetrants - nothing - it was toast. Naturally, right before state inspection time...

The valve is about $85.

I'm told they have a hard life due to the vent location in the frame rail, and there is an update that includes a filter to help avoid that - but I'm leery of a $100 filter to protect an $85 valve...

I plan to run my vent line to the left taillight housing, much as is done with the axle vent mod, although with much bigger hose...
_________________
*MIL is the official term - Malfunction Indicator Light,
AKA 'Service Engine Soon' and 'Check Engine' light.

 

Great post. I am taking mine off and cleaning it as I type!

Zack

 

Its also usually the culprit when you're trying to fill up and gas pukes all over you and you haven't even put a 1/4 tank of gas in. I did this on my 04 Titan and solved that problem, was a little tired of loosing money and smelling like gas, LOL.

 

I believe I found the part I need for about $45 bucks on Rockauto.com =
2005 NISSAN TITAN LE 5.6L 5552cc V8 FLEX FI [VK56DE] DOHC : Emission : Vapor Canister Purge Valve DORMAN Part # 911503

as opposed to the $79 dollar part on this nissan parts site 14935-AM60B-A60
Titan Emissions Control Valve

these parts seem the same, any opinions before i order?

 

That is the correct part, but honestly I would go with the OEM in this case. Its up to you though.

 

Most likely last as long.. Since the OEM's upgrade includes a filter for 100 bones according to ArtechnikA. :huh:

Good write up Q.

L

 

if you install this kit EVAP-SERVI :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com like the later models have, you will keep the dust out. I bet someone could come up with something cheaper.

 

I thought about adding some filter material stuffed into the side of the bed rail, on the driver-side for sure, to keep the dust and dirt from that tire out. I haven't looked at it very well to see if dirt could enter from any areas except the sides of the rail.

what say you?

 

thanks bro.

 

Well, I bought my Titan about two weeks ago, and it was throwing the Evap Ctrl code. So, I ordered a new valve from RockAuto, and did a little modding to install it.

Spectre breather filter for 1/2 breather tube: $9.99
5/8 to 1/2 Heater hose adapter: $3.29
4-pk of 3/16-5/8 band clamps: $2.99 (only need 2)
Reuse original breather hose

No more clogged valves.

 

No more clogged valves.

ok guys this looks interesting, but the valve is on the tranny or the rear axle diferential?

and what valves are you talking about? the tranny ones?

 

I've gotten this light twice now - both occasions were the morning after a 90+ degree day - and like 90% humidity on top of that - wonder if that is a coincidence

 

Thanks to the OP - took exactly 10 minutes with the air blow out.
BTW - I used the Rockauto part 911503 (mfd. by Dorman)
Dorman warranties their parts for life...so if it goes bad again, I might be able to get a free valve out of them.
Saved me some $$$ and fit perfectly - works too!

 

If you get on your back and get under the rear of the truck on the driver's side, there is a black plastic container just in front of and above the rear axe with this piece sticking out of it. It has a black rubber tube running from the valve to a support rail for the bed and an electrical connector.

Unless you are getting a code, don't worry about replacing it right yet

 

Here is another option instead of the OEM $100 filter.

It was a Fram gas filter I purchased from Walmart for $3.99 I had to cut the original hose to splice it in. The filter came with 2 short hoses which I was able to fit inside the existing hose, I then added 2 hose clamps.

 

Did this today. Used the short hoses inside the existing hose as well. I was gouged at the dealership for the price of the VCV, so I wanted to put a filter inline this time around. I feel much better about replacing the valve now. Thanks so much for the idea. I couldn't find a filter with a suitable barb anywhere. Your post was extremely helpful.

My VCV has had my CEL on for months, which I would occasionaly check, and reset. Yesterday I was at a gas station in the middle of nowhere, and I couldn't get any fuel in the tank. I could get a small amount in, and then it would come gushing out. Codes read P1446 (VCV closed) as well as P0445. I crawled under the truck at the gas station and pulled the VCV off, and was able to fill up. The hicks that 'hung out' at the gas station loooved that. No love for nissan in those parts.

After fillup, popped the valve back on, and changed it out today, with inline filter. Thanks to everyone that contributed to this helpful thread.

 

Thanks guy. this "old"an appreciates hearing from you all.I went to the Nissn dealer in O'Fallon Illinois, and beleiv me , will NOT EVER go back there. They treat you like you are stupid, and they are GOD

 

just a question, but is this dealing with fuel vapors? or what vapors?

 

yes, it is the device that is supposed to siphon off fuel vapors and take them to the engine for burning as an emissions control procedure

 

ok, that is what i was wondering, with that vent line to the bedrail, i was wondering if it even goes to the engine. because that would be a wast of vaporized fuel that would be 100% burn. i know that my buell 1125r has a fuel vent line, which vents to the ground... that will change within the week!!! i walked outside the other day (it was 87* outside) and there was a big wet spot on the drive way below the gastank vent line... hmmm i wonder what that was. lol enough fuel to go 15miles! lol

 

Guys I really appreciate all that you continue to send me. I am purchasing the Dorman part, However You can also purchase the same part from NAPA Part #6003512, However this is the same part number of RockAuto or Dorman. I have talked with Mech in the Sparta Illinois Area, and they have purchased from Dorman or RockAuto and they say that they stand behind their parts and have not had a problem. We tried like the other person to clean this part, light went out for a few miles but is rightback on and still spits gas back at you when putting gas into the tank. Thanks and will put a notice when we are done putting the part on. You guys are great, but of course you drive a Nissan Titan

 

my dorman part lasted as long as I needed it to...long enough to pass OBD-II state inspection - I am good for another 2 years before I even worry about replacing this part again! (I have not had the fuel spit back at me like other guys have)

 

Hey Rob,

Glad you were able to find my post useful. It sure was a lot cheaper than the Nissan part and I can’t see why it wouldn’t work, its sure a lot better than not having anything like the original design.

 

ok so this valve is for the gas tank. thanks any ideas which is the valve that help to stop the leak in the rear axle seals..

 

any ideas which is the valve that help to stop the leak in the rear axle seals..

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-faq-howto-area/28334-axle-vent-issue-solution.html