[HRTKD]

Nice write-up and team work guys. I saw the post while it was "under construction" and I was hitting the refresh button every 15 minutes.

 

[Pops]

I need a Walrus near my house. That looks intimidating. Excellent write-up. :rockon

 

[Frank N]

I need a Walrus near my house. That looks intimidating. Excellent write-up. :rockon

Yes we all do...but then again, maybe not. :lol:

Walrus, Robkar, thanks boys.

 

[jager2704]

Great write up guys.....thanks

 

[TA CC TX]

Great write up! another MONEY Saving how to Thanks I am at 150 thou plus so a starter install is more than likely in my future!

 

[37L1]

Thank you for this useful and informative post - ADMINS - Please make this a sticky - so it does not get lost!

Done, done and done!

 

[baseballfanz]

Probably one of the best "how to" write up I've seen on TT. Very detail and great pictures.:thumbsup:

 

[KING_Polaris]

It really isn't that difficult.
Only King Polaris makes it look difficult. :king:

It really wasn't that difficult, I was just too damn lazy to produce some kind of write-up on it. :lol:

Well done guys, my truck is still pulling strong after my starter replacement, I had put in a new radiator as well since I was draining the coolant anyways, I figured I may as well.

 

[krh2]

Awesome how to!! My starter has been intermittently acting up for a long t7me. It finally gave up. I bought the Lisle tool and ready to go this sunday, I found one vid on YouTube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tG712y9wpM8&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

[RobKar]

If you need some advice or help, send me a PM. We are both in the same area ...

 

[krh2]

If you need some advice or help, send me a PM. We are both in the same area ...

Thx. I will.

$308 at Mossy.
$6.43 each for gaskets.

$208 at pep boys.

Getting it at Mossy.

Love your platform idea. I'm gonna slap one together w scrap 2x4s. Way better than standing on a bucket. Though I think I'll make it taller than 8".

 

[krocks]

FYI for those who are about to do this install. The OP has a few steps in his write-up that are unnecessary, so look below to save yourself some time/hassle.

1) The intake manifold does not need to be completely removed. It can just be moved out of the way while a few of the vac lines and fuel lines are still connected.

2) There is no need to drain coolant or remove coolant lines. Simply unbolt your throttle body from the intake manifold and leave propped in your engine bay. It isn't in the way.

3) There also is no need to disconnect your fuel line or remove the fuse/drain injectors. Simply disconnect the fuel line from it's guides and be careful as you move the intake manifold out of the way.

The starter is completely reachable with the intake manifold just slid out of the way a bit, so save yourself some time and take note from my experience above.

 

[KWAZ!]

Thanks for this write up. Pictures were perfect! I followed step by step since I'm replacing the manifold with the newer one and doing the starter since I'm in there. That starter is in a ridiculous spot. I started laughing when i finally saw it. Awesome write up!

 

[Luke Adair]

Hey everyone, thanks for posting this how-to. It helped me out with the process of locating and installing my new starter. I've got an 2008 Infiniti QX56 (approximately 90K miles), which obviously has the same engine as the Titans and Armadas. After installing the starter I hopped back in the car to try and start it and I got a clicking noise like the battery was dead. Pulled out the jumper cables to see if the battery was in fact dead and I no longer got a click when I try to start, but I get this sound:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWx2zTO6SAU&list=UUk2wen79jQ0C3OHVJoc6ZrA

Does anyone have a clue as to what could have gone wrong? The starter I installed was the Premium one from Napa:

NAPA AUTO PARTS

Also a little background story on how I came to the conclusion that the starter needed replaced. My wife was driving the car in a parking lot and the engine shut off on her completely. It wouldn't crank, turn any lights on, or event attempt to crank. It went as far as not even being able to get the key to turn into the accessory position. It was completely locked up.

We had it towed to the AAA Car Care Center where they replaced the terminal ends because there was enough acid corrosion/build up that it completely ate through the terminal end. That didn't get the engine to start back up so they ran some diagnostics on it and said that it needed a new IPMD. Install that and it still didn't start. They ultimately sent it to the Inifiniti dealership where the said the ECU was bad. They replaced that and it started right up for them. We go to pick it up a few days after they installed the ECU and it does nothing. They said it was the starter. Long story short, I didn't have to pay AAA for anything because they said since they couldn't get it fixed that they didn't feel it right to have me pay for it. Dealership, not so nice, charged me $800 for the ECU and was going to charge an additional $750 for the starter/labor.

Anyone that can give me any insight as to why the new starter is making this sound and/or not starting up the engine, I'd greatly appreciate it! THANKS!

 

[Walrus]

Your new starter is spinning but the drive gear isn't talking to the flywheel. Could be a couple of things. 1, it isn't mated to the block correctly. 2, the Bendix is stuck. 3, the plunge depth of the replacement unit is less than that of the old unit. Sorry. You have to r&r it again.

 

[Luke Adair]

Your new starter is spinning but the drive gear isn't talking to the flywheel. Could be a couple of things. 1, it isn't mated to the block correctly. 2, the Bendix is stuck. 3, the plunge depth of the replacement unit is less than that of the old unit. Sorry. You have to r&r it again.

Thanks Walrus for the response! Couple questions here: A) Can you lay that out in rookie mechanic lingo? AKA How can I figure out if the Bendix is stuck? What is a bendix? How do I change the depth of the plunge on the replacement unit?

Assuming R&R isn't rest and relaxation huh? More like remove and reinstall?

There sure isn't a whole lot of room in there for my big hands to maneuver get to this stuff!

 

[RobKar]

I know that there are some good starters out there for other cars and trucks, but, because of the difficulty replacing this starter, the OEM starter is the one you should use.

They fit and do not have issues with sticky bendex and are the correct length. Go to a dealership and get one.

 

[RobKar]

On more thing ... Replace the battery.

 

[Luke Adair]

On more thing ... Replace the battery.

Neglected to mention that the battery is brand new, OEM replacement done at the same time as the ECU install.

 

[Walrus]

Thanks Walrus for the response! Couple questions here: A) Can you lay that out in rookie mechanic lingo? AKA How can I figure out if the Bendix is stuck? What is a bendix? How do I change the depth of the plunge on the replacement unit?

Assuming R&R isn't rest and relaxation huh? More like remove and reinstall?

There sure isn't a whole lot of room in there for my big hands to maneuver get to this stuff!

At this point it isn't the battery. I looked at your video.
The Bendix, aka starter drive throws the starter gear out to mate with the flywheel just as the starter motor begins to spin. I had a stuck Bendix on a boat starter about a year ago. After I nudged it loose it was fine but I had to remove the starter from the block to do it. You do too.

To investigate the fault you need the starter on a bench. Sorry.

To check plunge depth you will have to do a side by side comparison between new and old. You will probably have to use a screwdriver to manually drive the Bendix out for measuring/checking. Otherwise put it in a vise and touch it with some jumper cables.

At any rate, you are looking for movement of the starter gear towards the flywheel. If it moves out freely, check for plunge depth. You may have been sold an incompatible unit.