Don't worry everything is ok, and normal. 6.5 or 7 quarts won't matter. You should put in 6.5 like the manual says, the dip stick is not perfectly accurtate. Next time put in 6.5 quarts and remember where the oil is on the dipstick, and consider this mark the full mark.

 

why is the pressure guage going to H when i step on the gas, is that normal too?

thanks for the quick reply

 

I can tell you that most people put in lil more than 7. When the truck is not warmed the oil pressure gauge goes high, It is normal.

I think my last oil change took 7 1/4.

 

Does it only do it when the engine is cold, or when it is hot also? The oil pressure guage will move higher as rpm increases. It will move more when cold, than when hot. Most people don't look at their gauges when they got the pedal on the floor, so most people don't notice it. When the vehicle is completly warmed up it probably shouldn't peg out.

 

why is the pressure guage going to H when i step on the gas, is that normal too?

thanks for the quick reply

yes, thats fine as well (as long as it isn't planted directly on H) . I have changed my oil twice myself and the dealership has done it 3 times. It consistently does that after the dealership changes it. Usually when I change it myself I put between 6 1/4 to 6 1/2 then I add about another half qt. within the week.

 

I did notice it setteled down when it warmed up, it still moved to about the 3/4 mark though.

 

I can tell you that most people put in lil more than 7. When the truck is not warmed the oil pressure gauge goes high, It is normal.

I think my last oil change took 7 1/4.

I wouldn't recommend putting more oil than the manual says, it won't really hurt anything. As long as you don't put alot more. But the engine was designed to run on 6.5 quarts, more won't help anything. The dip stick is for reference, not measured exactly for each truck.

 

I did notice it setteled down when it warmed up, it still moved to about the 3/4 mark though.

Completely normal, nothing to worry about.

 

I did notice it setteled down when it warmed up, it still moved to about the 3/4 mark though.

it will be more pronounced when the truck is cold and its cold outside, at least from my own exp.

 

Thanks for the feedback, i was worried i killed my engine

 

Yes, your engine is blown. Put it on a crate and ship it to me. :eveilgrin

 

Yes, your engine is blown. Put it on a crate and ship it to me. :eveilgrin

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHA

There are many schools of thought on the correct filling procedure. None are right, and none are wrong. You truck is acting correctly. Do not fret Grasshopper. Now ship it to Best so he can develope the flux-capacitor and FF us to a time when we have a bigger and better after market.

The oil will until warmed up will show higher levels of pressure, this is good. This means your bearings work properly. Once the engine has hit operating temp. it will still rise when you feed the beast, just not as high. If you hit the fuel and it doesn't go up, Then you got problems. These are usually followed by severe schreeching and a loud bang. This is not when Bestatchess will desire to have your engine.

Undefilling/Overfilling
- Under as long as it is within the hash marks and not less than 6.6 quarts. This is ok
- Overfilling as long as cold and level does not go over the hash marks is ok. My truck takes right at 7 full quarts to get to the full mark.

Hope this helps

 

This morning i check my oil and the oil level has gone from just below F to just above L. BAD?
.

Remember if you put your filter on dry (not filled with oil) That can bring the oil level down as well when you run the engine. I put 7 q. in mine. Its not a problem.

 

You did use the proper oil filter, right....? Some aftermarket filters can cause oil pressure problems like what you describe.

If you do have an aftermarket filter on it and want to change it, you can just spin it off, and put the right one on. Start up, idle (don't race the engine) for a couple of minutes, and then recheck the level and add as necessary.

We were always taught that a half quart over/1 quart under is pretty much okay as long as the engine isn't being used hard. Overfilling can overpressure main bearing seals and cause them to fail.

The other thing that 'the old guys' always said was that as long as the dipstick tube is properly seated in the block, you should always go by the dipstick. Some oil pans (in those days) could be under-capacity or over-capacity a bit.

And you should ALWAYS check oil after a change and restart of the engine. NEVER just drop the hood and drive off. That's asking for disaster.

 

You did use the proper oil filter, right....? Some aftermarket filters can cause oil pressure problems like what you describe.

i got a filter from kragen, it looked exactly like the one i took off and it's the one they said fit's the truck. i'm not confidant about the brand though, but i'm not really sure where to get a good one or what a good brand is. maybe i'll try k & n, any thoughts?

maybe i'll try replacing the filter again, and add what drips out.

 

There is no reason to put more than 6.5 quarts of oil in the engine, the manual says 6.5 with filter change. These dipsticks are not made to exacting tolerances like the rest of the engine. They are stamped in huge numbers and are for reference only. Putting a extra half or full quart probably won't hurt anything, but why would you want to do it. Thinking a 20 cent dipstick is more accurate than what the engineers decided the engine needs is not a good idea. I would bet you could take a dipstick from another truck, and put it in your truck and it would show a little different level.

 

i got a filter from kragen, it looked exactly like the one i took off and it's the one they said fit's the truck. i'm not confidant about the brand though, but i'm not really sure where to get a good one or what a good brand is. maybe i'll try k & n, any thoughts?

maybe i'll try replacing the filter again, and add what drips out.

To be really blunt, just because it looks the same doesn't mean that it IS the same.

A filter for a Buick six-cylinder LOOKS the same as a Honda filter on the outside. They have different thread pitches and the engine ends up getting an oil bath on the outside. I had a guy come in with this, and had he gone mayber 20 miles further he would not have had an engine. I drained only about a quart and a half out of the engine.

It's generally not a good idea to mess around with aftermarket filters on this truck, unless you're ABSOLUTELY sure of the quality and manufacturer. They seem to be sensitive to what goes on. (More on this in a second) The Nissan filter isn't that much more money. If it's a longer drive to the dealer, get them from someone here on TitanTalk who sells the genuine article.

I go to a good local reputable shop to get my oils changed; my fingers don't work so well anymore. The first change they did for me, they put on a Purolator, which is a good brand, has the right sealing surface, right thread pitch on the boss, and the right amount of filter media inside. I got home, and had to go someplace else about an hour later. I started up, and heard all these 'non-oiled' noises from the engine. I look down, and it took about 5 seconds (which is an eternity in these new close-tolerance engines) to get oil pressure!:eek2:
This is because the Puro doesn't have the good anti-drainback valve that the Nissan filter does. This engine REQUIRES this valve in the filter. Most aftermarket oil filters omit this as a cost-saving step. You want instant oil pressure in the engine on start-up. Otherwise you'll be rebuilding it at 80,000 miles and wondering why.

Okay, I've gone on and on... Hope this helps.

 

who on here sells the filters? and how do i get them from them?

 

who on here sells the filters? and how do i get them from them?

If you are talking about the OEM Nissan filters, you can get filters & crush washers (for the oil drain plug) at www.courtesyparts.com (among others). They also have the cabin air filters and engine air filters.

 

6.5 to 7 is safe, low is bad, higher is bad. Low oil causes the existing oil to have to absorb and remove the heat load beyond its capacity while high oil levels can cause foaming or in high high level, create an oil wedge so great that is can actually push bearings out of place causing a wiped bearing...bad news.

 

True Story...

I had a 1987 Volvo 240DL wagon. I was driving it from St. Louis to the Gettysburg, PA area, and it was the first long trip for it since I owed it. And being that it had 140K miles on it at that point, I was careful to watch the oil level. When I would stop for food or gas, I'd be sure to check the oil level. After my first day of driving, I noticed the oil was reading low, real low. So, I added some oil, still low. So I added more oil...still low. I added MORE oil, and after nearly 2 quarts, it read full. Within 5 minutes of driving it, I got an oil engine light. I knew SOMETHING was wrong...lol

I had it towed off the highway to a Volvo dealer. They checked the oil level and couldn't believe I got 7 QUARTS in it!!! Turns out, the prior Volvo dealer pulled the dipstick tube out of the block slightly during my previous PM visit. So, this dealership drained some and sent me on my way. That car is still running today with 240K miles, same motor...

 

Since when was having HIGH oil pressure a bad thing?

Just a tip, but after you change the oil and filter, START ip up and let the new filter fill with oil, then shut it down AND LET IT DRAIN BACK INTO THE PAN (nissan says 10 minutes) and then check your dipstick and service from there. it should be right on.

a little bit about oil pressure. pressure is what? resistance to flow. Cold oil has a higher resistance to flow and thus a higher pressure reading. and your gauge will fluctuate with engine rpm. it is supposed to. if these pressure gauges were really accurate, it would move a lot more with rpm.

 

Yup, the only thing the gauges are really good for are extremes High and Low to let you know you have a problem, mid range or normal operating conditions they are not accurate

 

Since when was having HIGH oil pressure a bad thing?

Just a tip, but after you change the oil and filter, START ip up and let the new filter fill with oil, then shut it down AND LET IT DRAIN BACK INTO THE PAN (nissan says 10 minutes) and then check your dipstick and service from there. it should be right on.

a little bit about oil pressure. pressure is what? resistance to flow. Cold oil has a higher resistance to flow and thus a higher pressure reading. and your gauge will fluctuate with engine rpm. it is supposed to. if these pressure gauges were really accurate, it would move a lot more with rpm.

High oil pressure is a bad thing it destroys seals and bearings. And there is no reason to put more than 6.5 quarts of oil in the engine. Put 6.5 quarts of oil in and note where the oil is on the dipstick, this mark should be considered the full mark. I don't believe it says anywhere to fill it to the full mark on the dipstick. 7 quarts won't hurt the motor, but why put it in?