get the Deaver C30 from PRG

 

Yea just add the c30 pack to your current block. You should upload some pics of your truck as well, sounds pretty sweet. Take some shots of how you stacked the spacers as well, I'm curious as how that worked out.

 

ya as soon as its done I will. I fit 39.5 Super Swampes in the front with the 9" lift. Just need the extra lift in the rear to get the clearance. Do they make a 6"+ block? Doesnt seem like it.

 

A taller block would cause more axle wrap. The spring pack that USN HM 350Z suggested would be the best way to get the additional lift.

To get the 39.5's to fit you will have to do some serious cutting on the front fender. You can either do the simple pinch weld mod or cut back the firewall like I eventualy did.

I got both pics:

 

Do they make a 6"+ block? Doesnt seem like it.

...umm they don't make a 6"+ block....I wonder why....Oh yeah now I remember...because it's a BAD IDEA....:eyebrow:

Doesn't anybody think about anything else besides "I need more lift"...don't care how, just need more....Can I interest you in a 9" block?....Pay no attention to that axle wrap, or when you hit the brakes and the axle wants to twist the spring because of all that new-found leverage with too tall blocks...

Have custom springs made, or find somebody that already has a spring that will eliminate those too tall blocks and bragg to others about how you did it the correct way...:kiss:

 

lol. Oh man you are on a roll lately.

 

Dude...I have a 5" block and I can't wait to get rid of it.

I get axle wrap with traction bars...

 

Get some traction bars. With that much lift in the back its almost a necessity that shouldnt be put off.

 

Yes, I have a traction bars just waiting to finish the rear lift so I can drill the holes to install.

You must have a monster because im running a 10" lift and had to trim a little to get 37's under mine.

Humm :teethmast I wonder why they fit perfect. 39.5 Super Swampers with no spacers and just perfect clear from the tire to the front bumper when turning both ways and also to the rear fender and inner fender. All I installed was a 6" procomp stage 2 kit with a 3" spacer on top of the coilover. I would figure thats 9" inches.

 

Here are some pics

 

You might need the PRG shackles along with the PRG C30 Deavers. Just a thought.

 

Did you take a measure tape to them I know iroks run pretty short? usually there 39.5's will run like 37.5 actually height and yours look really worn down as well. You still look like you have a bunch of clearance are do your coilovers have any preload on them? Are you 4wd or 2wd?

 

Just measured the tires and your right they messure 38.5. As far as the tread the front tires are brand new even though the pics look like they have been through the mud. My truck is 2wd and as far as the coilovers there not all the way up so yes theres some preload on them.

 

wow man you have a freak of a truck congrats.

 

he has to have! im running 11"s and i had to trim pretty good for my 38.5's but they also measured 39.75 cause my wheels were too skinny. my 37's now clear just fine. i wonder how it will be if he is turnt and hits the brakes. if it all works out, that is crazy

 

Hes got a 3 inch spacer with coil overs that's where he's getting the crazy amount of lift

 

doesnt matter. i have 6" fabtech, with 2" spacer, and body lift and im 2wd and i had to trim quite a bit for 38.5 x 15.50 x17 pro comp extreme at's

 

I was suprised also when the lift was done how high the front was. Another problem im running into is that my UCA's are hitting my coilover towers. Im going to have them cut so there not touching. Other then that its a little bouncy but braking seems to be fine. I just need to get the *** end up.:read:

 

the uca hits cause of the 3" spacer. do not cut on the uca not a very wise decision. you will also hate replacing the front end soon also. i have boggers on mine and never again will i. it has wore soooo much **** out on my front end. brakes, wheel bearing assembly, radiator, shocks, tie rod ends,

 

those 39's you running are slim thats why they fit with no rub. what are they like 12.50 ? i hade to trim with my toyo's because they are 13.50 and toyo's run wider than what they state. so the 13.50 is actually 14" wide. SS run slightly slimmer than what they say. so your 12.50 is maybe 12".

don't get a larger block. get the deaver c30 leaf pack (add 2.50" lift), driveshaft spacer (you will need this) and traction bars.

 

Ive since lowered the front a little and put a spacer about half that size though.

 

Ok guys have a question... I have a guy that wants to ark my rear oem leaf springs to the exact height to level the front and rear. Has anyone done this? Also how does $150 sound to do this?

 

It works good if he knows what hes doing.

 

Ya I hear that. He also told me to change the shackles also. Atlas wants like $490 for the leafs that I saw. Thats crazy..... I would rather buy the c-30 deaver pack from PRG.

 

going big isnt cheap, anyone here lifted can contest to that. also with that much lift on your 2wd you can throw your 2 piece drive shaft away. the standard carrier bearing drop isnt worth a flip over 6" or atleast mine isnt. i just put u-joints in the rear. 48k miles about 20-25k lifted and not a single u-joint had needles or grease in it. most of them were wore flat on 1 side!

 

Has anyone used Supersprings leaf springs? I found a set to raise my back but the guy is telling me its going to raise it 2" is that true?

 

This thread brings the FAIL...So many bad ideas going around...ouch. Balljoint spacers? Stacked spacers? 8"+ blocks? Sorry, guess its not my bag, I like a driveable truck.

 

Instead of telling everyone they FAIL and how bad their ideas are, Maybe you could offer some suggestions. So lets hear it new guy help the others out.

 

Just because im new to the forum doesnt mean im stupid...

The uniball spacer? That just looks downright scary. It puts too much stress on the mounting bolt in there. You're increasing the lever arm on the uniball mounting nut by spacing it that way and it's not helping anything by having a very small contact point where it buts up against the uniball flange and the spindle. If you had used a spacer with a larger outer diameter, it would have more contact area, giving you more resistance to bending the bolt. You can see where the uniball was contacting on the spindle by the warn/clean circle around the spacer. Using a uniball with more misalignment spacing built into the ball or a larger diameter uniball would have been better, or finding another way to keep that from being necessary (I.E. trimming/modifying unecessary items it was hitting).

Adding a spacer to your lift just kills ride quality. You can tell me it doesnt but its simple geometry. The more you space those front struts/coilovers down, the more the verticle force component of surface imperfections (bumps) goes through the control arm directly to the chassis. The less spacer you have, the more horizontral the control arms are at ride height, transferring more of the verticle force component through the spring/shock absorber.

Any block, especially over 1-2" is a bad idea, especially in a truck like this with good power, tall tires, etc. It just causes tons of unecessary space between the axle and spring, creating a very large moment arm, causing severe axle wrap. A full spring lift starts getting ridiculous after about 6", unless you get longer springs. They just dont absorb much shock because they cant, they arent able to flex rearward because the ends come up so vertically.

If you just want to get a big tire under there, I would have gone a bracket lift with a body lift and some trimming. IFS suspensions do not lend themselves well to tall lifts. I have 37s on my toyota pickup with ~3" of lift, but thats because I did a lot of work to trim the body and redo the entire suspension/drivetrain.

The things you guys are talking about just seems to make a truck capable of sitting on a big tire and thats it. I wouldnt want to drive it, or ride in it, sounds too dangerous and top heavy to me.

 

Umm first of all I drive my truck atleast 50 miles every day. Including offroading once a week on moderate trails in the woods. Second of all that spacer was machined in a lathe that tapered into the spindle and was solid except for where the bolt went through. Third of all I replaced it with one a 3rd of its size so thats a lot less stress then the one in the picture. That spacer was just a quick fix so I could drive the truck until the proper one was made. The picture was just for a reference as to where it went. Next ints not a ball joint its a heim. Next the truck drives way better with the spacer then it does with all the preload on the coilovers. In fact it wasnt any differance at all with or without the leveling kit. Next im going to school for mechanical engineering and have taken many physics classes and am well aware of the added stress from the spacers, its not enough to even think about bending the grade 8 bolt.

 

Here are some pictures I took today, notice the scratches from the tree limbs. Trust me the truck doesnt get babied and nothing has brocken yet and the alignment is still good.