I've been battling all four of those codes. plus P0420 and P0430, cat codes. For me all were linked to Catalytic Converter.

9 months ago I replaced stock headers and primary Cats with upgrade to LT headers (did this b'cuz I suspected that the cats were coming apart or clogged b-cuz codes said they were, and the truck lost power and started lurching...problems).

The truck ran fine... MUUCH better than with the original Headers and Primary Cats. However, I still had constant POO30 adn P0174. (presumably the new data causes the computer to start making corrections to fuel air mix and ignition timing to compensate for dirty exhaust since I have not had the $$ to get UPREV tune on this modified exhaust system) but it ran great...

After 30k, I again got a codes for multiple misfires etc. and lurchy crappy engine operation. So I assumed all my exhaust mods lacking ECM tuning were causing ignition and mixture issues that were leading to plugs being fouled. Pulled plugs and found passenger side were horribly black and fouled. Drivers side were whitish tan, clean.... so...half correct.

new plugs, truck ran so-so. The new set of codes read clogged Cat on B-pipe. Just one side. That matched my plug evidence so I drilled both (for good measure) cats out and vacuumed out the bits.

Now the Engine runs stronger than ever. For the time being, due to $$ shortage, I am going with it as is.


My local muffler shop quoted me $450 total to weld new universal high flow Cats into the B-pipe section.

I guess my long term solution is UPREV as well as those new Cats welded in to make sure I have no inspection issues in the future.
But one way or another, riding the truck of all cats and fresh plugs has it rolling well for now.
Good Luck!

 

P0172 NISSAN - Fuel Injection System Too Rich Bank 1

Possible causes
- Faulty front heated oxygen sensor
- Ignition misfiring
- Faulty fuel injectors
- Exhaust gas leaks
- Incorrect fuel pressure
- Faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor

P0175 NISSAN - Fuel Injection System Too Rich Bank 2

Possible causes
- Faulty front heated oxygen sensor
- Ignition misfiring
- Faulty fuel injectors
- Exhaust gas leaks
- Incorrect fuel pressure
- Faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor

Get the fuel pressure test to see if your pump is good.

 

Thanks guys for the help!

mrelmtl: I haven't gotten any codes for the cat...thank God!!!

baseballfanz: where do I go to get the fuel pressure checked? Stealership or any decent mechanic?

Here is the latest on mine:
So after running the 100% gasoline the "check engine light" came on again. Hop in after work Tuesday, light is off. Awesome, right? Well fast fwd to Friday and I am driving and it starts it shaking and hoping again. It starts like light shaking/hoping and then goes into full fledged like I installed friggin hydraulics in the back!!!! It was shaking so bad going down the interstate that my voice was shaking while on a phone call!!!

Think this may or may not have anything to do with it, but it started the light shaking once gas gauge reached 1/2 tank and got CONSIDERABLY worse as it got lower. Couple that with absolute horrid gas mileage...as in less than 10 mpg. I would understand that more if I had mudders or a lift on it, but I'm "Sarah Plain and Tall" on mine right now.

Thanks in advance for any help!!!

 

If the system is running rich, then you're going to lose gas mileage because the system is dumping fuel into the engine without the air.

 

So I bit the bullet and took it to the stealership...please see attachment and let me know what you all think.

They got the following codes: P0300, P0172, P0174, and P0175.

They told me the cat came apart and the debris is in the muffler. They can clean the muffler out, but will have to replace the right manifold/cat. **OK**

Here is where I need some clarification:
Then he goes on to say that they also have to replace the O2 sensors for B1 and B2 and also the right down pipe. And also on the list of parts is the crossover pipe/tube (I thought this was part of the manifold/cat assembly).

So am I getting ripped off here or no? The price tag he gave me almost made me laugh and then instantaneously puke!!!

...the funniest part was he also said, "while we are under there, we can go ahead and replace the left side cat too if you want? It'll be an extra $1600."

Thanks guys.

 

Get your booty hole ready for gape action.. for that price you can get ALL your sensors, LT Headers, UPREV, aftermarket exhaust, new b-pipes, and still have a grand left over.. Thank gawd I do my own work. Jeebus..

 

Speaking the truth right here ^^^^^^. Better off skipping the dealership services and buying all aftermarket. You will be much happier with the end results.

They are really trying to screw you over, because there is no reason to replace anything past the b-pipes except for maybe the muffler. That's the only thing left past your b-pipes that could get clogged up from the left overs of a blown cat. But even then, it would have to make it past the catted b-pipe.

Do the dealerships pay these guy's more to screw people over? At the interview, do they ask situational questions to see if you will tell a customer these things to make them more money? Seriously, I am glad I do my own work. Pays to be a your own mechanic, cause then you're the only one screwing yourself over in the end.

 

and I just noticed - this is for JUST the right side only... wow man $3,546 for just 1 side - please go somewhere else.. PLEASE.. Even if you bought the one B-Pipe new, its 699 from the dealership. He bumped it 200 bucks excluding the labor...

 

Infrared thermometer from autozone 30 bucks. Temp all 4 cylinders on bank 1 record do the same on bank 2. If bank1 is colder than bank2 then switch bank1 o2 sensor with bank2 o2 sensor and see if condition switches to bank2 if so you have a bad o2 sensor, temping each cylinder you with be able to see if one cylinder is running hotter or colder than other witch could be fuel injector or coil.trying not to confuse you here lol

 

^^agreed 100%..

AcidJake

 

Trust me guys, I have NO intention of letting the dealership do this work!!! I took it to them to diagnose for me before I just started randomly replacing parts. I kept wondering about the cats, but none of the codes I was getting even referenced them. I am just hoping that replacing them will fix my issue.

With that said I have been talking with fellow member Chevymanrc and he is going to have OEM sets and walker b-pipes taken off of his and selling them for a great price, but all of that has gotten me thinking that if I am going to spend the money, I wonder what after-market systems cost and what are my alternatives???
I am a notorious tight-***, but since I am having to spend the money anyways... What do y'all recommend? All I am after is a deep rumble/roar...nothing crazy loud or obnoxious just tough sounding.

Thanks guys.

 

I think we already recommend it.... JBA Lt's, Cajun B-pipes, and UpRev. I am tight with my money too, and this is the setup I am finishing up purchasing next month.

 

I haven't had a chance to look at prices for the suggestion from JoeTitan04, but I intend too.

Does anyone know or have tried gutting the cats and running it that way? How does it effect the computer, drive-ability, etc? Exploring all options...I just know back in the day you could do this, but I have heard some grumble over doing it. BTW: we do not have any emissions testing where I live, so that's not that big of a concern for me.

 

You can gut the b pipes but not the primaries,, well I guess you could with UpRev tune but might as well go headers then. The way the estimate the dealer gave you made it sound, your passenger side is already gutted

 

I purchased my JBA LT's from AJUSA.com for $447, I think autoanything.com also carries them and may be a bit cheaper. Look up Cajun B-Pipes of FB to see the prices or just contact him on here, his member name is nightowl. And for UpRev, check out their site (UpRev - Engine Management) for the different packages. Might do a little research to see if you have any local places that work with UpRev, might be priced fairly unless you want it to go on the dyno or they require you to dyno. Not sure, never taken anything to a shop to be tuned.