This is for a specific Actuator that controls the vents from MAX AIR all the way to DEFROST. I believe more than one Actuator does this but this is the one that is notorious for going bad. It is located on the side Plenum above and right of the gas pedal tucked in neatly behind a engine control module.
Part Number 27743-ZP00A
$34.96 at the local dealer
Tools used and in Typical Nissan Fashion you need two sizes of sockets for the screws that hold in the actuator.
1. 3/8 drive 14mm socket for the seat bolts
2 9/23, 7/32 and 9/32 wrench or 7mm wrench (same as 9/32) (7mm socket for 9/32)
3. 3/8 ratchet or air ratchet
4. 1/4 drive ratchet or air ratchet
5. small flat blade screw driver to help push in pins for electrical connections
6. flash light, work light.
7. 1 hour of your time
There is enough room for a 1/4 air ratchet, I suggest using one if you have it. There isn't much room working work a hand ratchet back and fourth.
First, remove the seat. This gives you a lot of room to lay down
There four bolts, one on each corner if you cant' figure that out stop now. Sorry no pics
Laying on your back and looking up you will see a black Engine control module with a few connectors. Unplug and wiggle the module loose. It is held on by two metal brackets that the module slides on to. You can unbolt if you wish, I didn't.
Now that that the module is out of the way you will see the Actuator hidden behind the bracket.
Disco the electrical connection to the Actuator
The top screw is a 7/32 and the two bottom screws are 9/32
I used a 1/4 drive air ratchet and remove the top screw and forward bottom screw. I used a 7mm wrench to remove the rear screw that is in direct line with the bracket
Now pull the Actuator straight out.
Install in reverse paying attention to how the external gears line up on the actuators. My new one was not lined up. I connected the electrical and turned the key on. The Actuator started to spin and I shut the key off when it was in the same position as the old on. Be fast and pop it in place before it does it's shut down maneuvers. Once you have it in place keep pressure on it for about 30-45 seconds. It will do its maneuvers and it is in.
To get the screws in install the top first loosely, then the rear screw behind the bracket then the forward screw. The last screw will require one hand to adjust the Actuator to get the holes aligned and one hand to start the screw. Once they are all started begin snugging them, go easy it's just plastic.
run a test run to make sure it is working then install the module and connect everything.
Not a difficult repair but not a cake walk either. It is pretty straight forward. There isn't much room and if you have large hands it will be more challenging. You will have to get into some weird positions to get both hands up in there at times. I am not exactly small I just could fit in there. It took about an hour and I did not rush anything. I spent more time trying figure out why my 7mm and 6mm didn't fit the top bolt. DUH they are SAE not metric (cussing Nissan the whole time)
I hope the pictures help, MS Paint isn't my specialty.
Part Number 27743-ZP00A
$34.96 at the local dealer
Tools used and in Typical Nissan Fashion you need two sizes of sockets for the screws that hold in the actuator.
1. 3/8 drive 14mm socket for the seat bolts
2 9/23, 7/32 and 9/32 wrench or 7mm wrench (same as 9/32) (7mm socket for 9/32)
3. 3/8 ratchet or air ratchet
4. 1/4 drive ratchet or air ratchet
5. small flat blade screw driver to help push in pins for electrical connections
6. flash light, work light.
7. 1 hour of your time
There is enough room for a 1/4 air ratchet, I suggest using one if you have it. There isn't much room working work a hand ratchet back and fourth.
First, remove the seat. This gives you a lot of room to lay down
There four bolts, one on each corner if you cant' figure that out stop now. Sorry no pics
Laying on your back and looking up you will see a black Engine control module with a few connectors. Unplug and wiggle the module loose. It is held on by two metal brackets that the module slides on to. You can unbolt if you wish, I didn't.
Now that that the module is out of the way you will see the Actuator hidden behind the bracket.
Disco the electrical connection to the Actuator
The top screw is a 7/32 and the two bottom screws are 9/32
I used a 1/4 drive air ratchet and remove the top screw and forward bottom screw. I used a 7mm wrench to remove the rear screw that is in direct line with the bracket
Now pull the Actuator straight out.
Install in reverse paying attention to how the external gears line up on the actuators. My new one was not lined up. I connected the electrical and turned the key on. The Actuator started to spin and I shut the key off when it was in the same position as the old on. Be fast and pop it in place before it does it's shut down maneuvers. Once you have it in place keep pressure on it for about 30-45 seconds. It will do its maneuvers and it is in.
To get the screws in install the top first loosely, then the rear screw behind the bracket then the forward screw. The last screw will require one hand to adjust the Actuator to get the holes aligned and one hand to start the screw. Once they are all started begin snugging them, go easy it's just plastic.
run a test run to make sure it is working then install the module and connect everything.
Not a difficult repair but not a cake walk either. It is pretty straight forward. There isn't much room and if you have large hands it will be more challenging. You will have to get into some weird positions to get both hands up in there at times. I am not exactly small I just could fit in there. It took about an hour and I did not rush anything. I spent more time trying figure out why my 7mm and 6mm didn't fit the top bolt. DUH they are SAE not metric (cussing Nissan the whole time)
I hope the pictures help, MS Paint isn't my specialty.