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Need help building Quick Disconnect Sway bar Links

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smon

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I like having my sway bar on while driving on the roads, so I want to build a quick disconnect for it when I go offroading.

I have seen replacing a bolt with a pin, but I know that causes a lot of noise and some have even broken. Here is the idea that I am going off of: JKS Quicker Disconnects

But those suckers are about 8" long. With my leveling kit I believe I need something around 4" long to keep it from flipping. So basically I want to build a prg style end link with a pin through it (or two) for the disconnect. It would be easy if they made non-threaded heim joints....but I can't find any such thing.

So I am thinking of putting on of these on a female heim: Draw Pin
But I can't find anything the right size. And I need to get a pin the exact right size to lock it into place.

I could use 1" tubing and use a "weld in nut" for the male heim end to accept that pin.

Any better ideas? Will this solve the noise and strength problem?
 
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#2 ·
just do exactly what the first link has but on a shorter scale. for example. buy two bushings, fab your own tube for the bushing, or buy it. then buy two sizes of pipe. the one size (the bigger pipe) welds to the two bushings. thats your end link. now you cut it in half or wherever, slide the smaller pipe inside, weld it. Just weld it on the one side, the other side it slides into the bigger pipe. Now take it to your drill press, drill a hole through both pipes, and bam slide in the pin.. ( you could do a piece of solid stock too like the link)

i would weld the bushings on and then cut the pipe in half. id weld the bushings on last or something. idk. haha. but ya, this is very doable if you have a welder, drill press or regular drill, and a chop saw or cut off wheel.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
I was thinking the same thing after I posted my first idea. I follow you on creating the disconnect with the pipes, but you lost me on connecting the tube to the heim joints. I could buy those weld on tube ends and screw them on, but I don't think I can keep the length to 4" (does anyone know what the max would be for a 3" level?).

I know I could get a straight rubber/poly bushing like the ones that come with the Rough Country kit, but I would then have to figure out the correct angles.
 
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#4 ·
They aren't using heims in the link. Just normal bushings. Would the Titan need the articulation heims give you cause it's IFS
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Just get some SAWs or Radflos and dump the swaybar altogether, best of both worlds w/o the headache.
Click to expand...
As long as you foot the bill, I'll do it. haha. I just bought 5100's and a level...I'm already in the doghouse so that wouldn't fly right now.


Honda- I just talking about a ball joint linkages like these : McMaster-Carr

If I just use a straight bushing with a bolt through it...it will have to be offset somehow (I think) like these RC ones: http://www.roughcountry.com/install/1112.pdf

Quick question: I need 1/2 - 20 for the sway bar and LCA correct?
 
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#7 · (Edited)
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Yeah, but his are detached by using a pin to the LCA or the sway bar. Later he says that they are noisy and he can't get the pin tight.
 
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Discussion starter · #9 ·
If I get some tubing and weld on these threaded ends I can put the disconnect inside of there in the middle. Problem is when I screw in the ball joint ends, it would end up being at least 6". Will that put the sway bar too high?
 
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#10 ·
or just weld the shank of the heim to the pipe. what i did on my traction bars actually is this...get the pipe, and find a heim you wanna use, make sure the pipe is big enough for a nut to fit in so that you can weld the nut to the pipe. now thread the heim to the nut, use another nut as a way to tighten the heim. look at this pic...the pipe tapers down at the end right? thats the nut. then you see another nut clearly, thats the one you tighten to keep everything snug. IMG_0816.jpg Photo by honda250xtitan | Photobucket
 
#11 ·
Why not just have a machine shop bore the threads out to a slight clearance fit over some bar stock, mill your holes and use some type of quick release locking clevis pins?


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Why not just have a machine shop bore the threads out to a slight clearance fit over some bar stock
Click to expand...
That's a good idea also, depending on price for machining. If the ball joint shanks are 1/2" and the threads are removed...will I have trouble finding a tight fitting tubing? Smallest I see online was a ID of .375". Nothing in between that and .5". And I guess both ends will need to be a quick release

I don't want to use any bigger ball joints or else they won't fit the stock sway bar/LCA holes. I guess I could use misalignment spacers to knock the size back down.

or just weld the shank of the heim to the pipe. what i did on my traction bars actually is this...get the pipe, and find a heim you wanna use, make sure the pipe is big enough for a nut to fit in so that you can weld the nut to the pipe. now thread the heim to the nut, use another nut as a way to tighten the heim. look at this pic...the pipe tapers down at the end right? thats the nut. then you see another nut clearly, thats the one you tighten to keep everything snug.
Click to expand...
That should knock at least 1.5" off the total length. Weld one joint straight to the pipe and a weld a nut for the other end.

Piecing this together is coming out to roughly $70 so far. I thought I was going to save money haha
 
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#13 ·
smon said:
That's a good idea also, depending on price for machining. If the ball joint shanks are 1/2" and the threads are removed...will I have trouble finding a tight fitting tubing? Smallest I see online was a ID of .375". Nothing in between that and .5". And I guess both ends will need to be a quick release

I don't want to use any bigger ball joints or else they won't fit the stock sway bar/LCA holes. I guess I could use misalignment spacers to knock the size back down.



That should knock at least 1.5" off the total length. Weld one joint straight to the pipe and a weld a nut for the other end.

Piecing this together is coming out to roughly $70 so far. I thought I was going to save money haha
Click to expand...
its hard to beat guys who buy in bulk. lol
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Really quick before I order everything...is 1/2" thread size correct for the sway bar and LCA holes?
 
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#15 ·
Discussion starter · #16 ·
You tha man
 
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#17 ·
Yep, I made some quick disconnect links. They cost about as much as prgs to make. They were definitely strong and worked. But, the problem was keeping the clevis pin tight enough to not make noise under heavy suspension use. I ended up just taking them off cause it sounded terrible. They never got damaged though.

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Discussion starter · #18 ·
I was going your route at first until you posted about the noise. Glad you could be the guinea pig for me. Hopefully this will solve the issue.

Are you leveled/lifted? What was the length of your links (from pin to pin)?
 
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Discussion starter · #20 ·
I said this would cost me about $70 to make the disconnecting links, but in reality I could make these just like the PRG ones for about $40 with all the hardware and ordering the end links from mcmaster-carr. All of my end links are have male ends, so I just need to buy a coupling nut and I have the same setup for only $5 more or so.
 
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smon
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