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2004 Titan Loss of Power

16K views 15 replies 13 participants last post by  DoubleAR  
#1 ·
Hi Folks,

My first post- you guys have had a lot of great advice I have been using.

Which brings me to my latest issue:

On the way home from a trip to Yellowstone from the Portland, OR area, my truck began to give me issues with loss of power. The details:

2004 Nissan Titan- towing a 20' travel trailer
Ran great from Portland to Yellowstone and all the way through Idaho on the way back.

In Idaho- temps (outdoor) rose and I gassed up on the way into Oregon.

On the hills I ran into in Oregon, I had a surging loss of power where the truck power would seem to waver- unless I kept the rpm under 2k or so. Climbing hills became a lot harder. And it seemed to become worse and worse. In Baker City, I stopped to try to affect repairs worried I might be stuck there.

I checked the air filter- it was dirty and I replaced it. I also tanked up with premium gas and octane booster- worried I had picked up a load of crap gas. The results were great- awesome power again.

For about 60 miles. Then it returned. Pushing the engine above 2k gave this wavering power. If I could keep it below that it would go o.k.

I had used about 1/4 of a tank. I gassed again with octane boost again.
Power was back. Again it ran well for about 1/4 tank and got bad again.

I managed through the mountains. Then I experimented with it. I tried stopping for about 20 minutes to see if just cooling off the rig helped. It didn't. Then I gassed up with just regular gas- bad idea- it ran pretty crappy with the same loss of power right off the bat. It seemed like the more high octane I gave it, the better but only for a 1/4 tankful.


So- multiple thoughts-

1: Did I get some bad gas- am I still running it out or maybe water in the fuel
2: Is my pump/filter failing? when its full, maybe the pump runs better due to being full (cools the pump- I have seen that before with another car)
3: I read about a mode the tranny can go into when its too hot where it restricts the power. this might be the case? But when I stopped to cool it off I assume this would go away as well (as it might with the fuel stops).


Right now- I'm thinking drain the fuel and charge it with good gas and see what happens.

If it still is there- I probably need to change the pump/filter assembly

Thoughts? Help!


BTW- the tread you guys really saved me on was the manual shifting issue with the tip-tronic like shifting. You all said it was a little black wire in the column that would break- I checked and it was BROKEN. I fixed it and it worked great- hat's off !
 
#3 ·
Although inconsistent with the return of power you already had, I would also get a can of MAF Cleaner and spray the MAF Sensor. I lean this way due to general symptom, age of vehicle and dirty air filter found. Anyone have Cipher or Bully Dog unit to read your OBD port? Maybe a Chain Parts store (Auto Zone) will read it free. Many do.
 
#4 ·
I don't think the cat converters are plugging just because a short stop without a fuel/octane boost didn't help the trouble- but every time I filled with more premium fuel/octane boost- it did help-- for awhile. If the cat converters were getting plugged and warmed with heat, the stop alone should have done the trick (I'd think).

Same with the MAF sensor- but that is worth a try too. I woulnd't expect a return of power.

ON the final leg of the trip today- I have a big, big hill to climb to get to my driveway. The rig was really having power problems and I doubted I could climb it. I pulled into the gas station at the bottom of the hill, checked the tranny fluid (good) and filled with premo gas- and powered up the hill. I still had some missing at the upper end but had enough power to get home (whew!).

I'm still thinking the gas is bad- or the pump/filter is bad or maybe- maybe- it was hot today, I was towing and maybe it was overheating the tranny today (still doesn't explain how more octane helped it at all tho)

current plans- I wanna dump the fuel- all of it. And try a fresh fill. Then- test- if I still have problems- I will change the pump/filter I guess. Hopefully that will get it. I was going to try a reset of the ecu tonight but so far, haven't gotten the instructions I got to work yet..I'll keep trying
 
#5 ·
What ever happened with your truck. i am ;leaning towards your cats so far. that would explain the problem when you get above 2k rpm no where for the exhaust to go. it could have been some crappy gas also. i know some mid west states use 85 octane not 87 for regular. a dirty air filter didn't help also. What re your miles also probably high for an 04. good luck i bet by now you have already resolved this. an update would be nice.
 
#7 ·
Wow you have described my problem exactly. The only thing I can add at this point is I broke down the muffler system at the rear flanges to the cat on both sides I found that the baffle on the passenger side had been removed ( not by me ), so I removed the driver side baffle and reassembled. Could not believe the change I had pick up and power that I had not seen in some time. Problem solved I thought, The energized condition only lasted a few days the general loss of power returned. I can cruse at any speed but if I depress the accelerator past a certain point it pops and sputters I have to accelerate very slowly to avoid the pops and sputters. Can any one help this has been going on for the past three months
 
#12 ·
you guys need to get the fuel pump pressure checked. especially without a CEL coming on.
 
#14 ·
Me too but sporadic.
At times driving/accelerating thinking I am missing some power and other times seems fine.
MPG has dropped 1 MPG as well.
This all started after they did some engine work.
Just the other day the Check Engine light came on and bringing it in for them to review.
Will post back with results.
Currently @ 198K mileage.
 
#15 ·
original front 02 (air/fuel) sensors? I bet you one is shot.

You may have another exhaust issue or purge valve issue as well. purge valve is cheap and easy, o2 sensors are not too bad either (if you have the right tools, it really helps - breaker bar, sensor sockets, extensions, wobble/u-joint socket adapters, torch, phosphoric acid (eats rust), some sort of break-free/lube).

I replaced my a/f sensors and replaced the shot evap purge valve and all of those issues went away.