This may be another option for you: http://www.titantalk.com/forums/tit...orums/titan-engine-transmission-drivetrain/138170-dana-60-here.html#post2567027

 

4wd may have to regear the front diff to match ratios for a Dana 60. I think you can get 4.10s for the front diff and Dana 60.

If your R&P are good, you can rebuild with a TruTrac, for e-locker you would need to swap out one axle shaft. If your R&P are bad, Arizona Differential may have R&P sets for sale if you call them. If you go for a used rear axle with an e-locker, I would look for 2007 cuz I think they upgraded to a 4 spider design. I am guessing around $1500 or so for a complete rebuild with TrueTrac.

 

What exactly "blew out"?

If the axle shafts are good, I'd replace the rear seals and install True Trac. for not even 1/3 of that cost.

 

Great question. When I get a chance I take the cover off and see what I can see.

 

Why don't You just put a true trac in it?

 

My bought my new rear end from the dealer for $1,740 had it installed for 600.

 

About 3 years ago when I had my rear-end replaced under warranty, the dealer told me the total cost was about $2800, also in the NY metro area. I can't imagine it has gone up $1,000 in that time.

 

08crewcab got a used rearend.. and bought TT and had it installed for around $1800 I believe.....

 

I bought a used rear axle assmbly for $650 shipped from SC to CT.

 

Thanks everyone for the quick responses. Took the cover off and the ring and pinion are fine. I jacked up the left rear tire and the axle is hanging up and clicking at the same spot. Does this mean I have a broken teeth on the axle and easy fix or does it mean something far worse? What typically fails with the Titan rear?

 

It might mean you have missing spider gear teeth. There are no teeth on the axle shafts, there are splines which engage side gear splines. Splines don't typically fail, powdered metal spider gears are frequent failure items, particularly on the pre-2007 two spider e-lockers.

 

Oh, and a good way to fix bad spider gears = TruTrac https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/tit...an/titan-detroit-truetrac-rear-differential-with-races-and-bearings-p-5912.html

 

I have the same year, same options. Bought a Detroit truetrac, installed in myself in less than 4 hours, and didn't have to buy axles. I was told if they didn't line up properly, you just switch driver and passenger side axles that they would. I didn't have to though. It's a pretty easy install if you're mechanically proficient, and the adjustment is easy (no shims). I can't believe there hasn't been a recall on this part considering the number of failures. If anyone knows of a class action suit, I want in.


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Also, I got mine from west coast differential and payed around $600 with new carrier bearings.


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Leaning in the truetrac direction based on what I read and this forum has like a 99.99999% percent track record for me.

few question:
Will I get an idiot light after I swap out the factory locker with the truetrac? I guess the new locker is automatic and work on some sort of centrifugal force and not manually engaged.

I see a lot of small metal pieces in the oil and the bottom of the pumpkin. Do I have to worry about the axle bearings? I don't want put in a 600.00 truetrac and then have something else fail.

What did you guys do?

 

The factor e locker would be null and void unless you did what bestatchess suggested-two swap out one axle shaft.

I'd consider an aftermarket differential cover. I have Mag Hytec but there's also PML and Stillen covers available. The extra capacity keeps everything cooler.

Definitely replace all the fluids though if you have metal shavings...and consider replacing the seals as a good preventative measure.

 

Will I get an idiot light after I swap out the factory locker with the truetrac?

I dunno, you would disconnect the harness at the pumpkin and Austin posted that he replaced the position detecting plunger with a bolt to plug the hole.

I guess the new locker is automatic and work on some sort of centrifugal force and not manually engaged.

Yes, mechanical, automatic, onroad, offroad, any speed.

I see a lot of small metal pieces in the oil and the bottom of the pumpkin.

probably spider gear teeth remnants

Do I have to worry about the axle bearings? I don't want put in a 600.00 truetrac and then have something else fail.

If you don't want to worry, you can have the axle bearings and seals replaced with the TrueTrac install. Timken Set 10 bearings and Nissan seals around $100 in parts online for both sides.

Or you can wait until the seals leak. You don't have to mess with the TT or even pull the diff cover to change axle seals and bearings.

 

I've got a truetrac on the way from 4x4parts. Thanks for the advice!

 

I'm under the impression that only the '04 and early '05's had the two spider gear rear end. They went to the 4 spider design when the finned aluminum dif cover was introduced.

 

About all I know is this:

GKN Driveline : Automotive Driveline Components : GKN Driveline Unveils New Electronic Differential Lock

debut 2007, four pinion, blah, blah, blah

 

Thanks Bestatchess, that is what I am afraid of not know until it is apart. I'm trying to cut the downtime to a minimum and since Jersey has like 100 Titan's in the whole state I doubt anyone local is going to have an axle. Maybe someone has a definitive answer and will chime in.

 

I have '05 CC 4x4 e locker and I didn't have to purchase anything. I'm 90% sure I didn't even have to swap sides. It was a year ago and beer was involved. You shouldn't need to purchase anything though, just the diff and bearings.




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my dealer said they dont even do rear or front diff repairs they just have them sent out....

the off road shop that fixed mine actually is one of the centers that does repairs for nissan in my area...

then again they were incompetent fools too, so be weary of where you do go to get it fixed but a 4x4 shop will do it cheaper... but the dana 60 is a better idea to use as a replacement rather than repairing the stock one IMHO

 

My dealer wont touch it unless I do a complete swap which is where I got that crazy quote. I found a shop that can do the rebuild. That is basically all they do and it seems like all the local transmission shops send that kind of work to them. If I were in SoCal, Florida or Texas I'm sure I could find a bunch of shops that have expertise in Titan's. Instead I live in the land of the F150.

 

I had the rear carrier (the e-locker) replaced with a True Trac on my 05 crew in February 2009 as pro-active maintenance task before it failed.

You can forget all this stuff about the axles. The axles are different lengths, there is no way they can change sides, they come out and go back in, period.

Things to consider, if you have a fair amount of miles on it and since the rear axle seals have a tendency to leak, you may want to replace them. To replace the seals you need to remove the bearings and the bearing retainer sleeve. The sleeves need to be cut off, not a shade tree project. So while you are this far why not replace the rear bearings.

Axle oil seals Nissan Part # 43252-7S200, $45.00 each from the dealer, they may found at local parts shop by now???

Bearings: from NAPA, # BR10, $45.00 each.

I had mine replaced at Performance Drive Line in Danielsville PA, the True Track installation cost was $300.00, I already purchased the TT.

I let the connector attached to the differential because without it you will have a hole in the rear center section and you can’t do that! There were no warning/error lights at all with the E-Locker removed.

Regards

Note: the bearing #'s I listed are for the carrier, not the axle. I did not replace my axle bearing as they were fine.

 

I just quoted from the dealer for $4800 Parts only. Of course thats Nissan in Canada but still

 

Who would pay that for a poorly designed OEM open diff axle???!!! All the info you need is in this thread! Buy a superior diff/axle for less. It's a no brainer! Choose your gearing and purchase the install kit.

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-engine-transmission-drivetrain/138170-dana-60-here.html

Find a qualified shop to do the job. I use a local speed shop for all my modifications. They are very professional and value their customers. No price gouging!

 

This thread talks about a replacement rear axle for 2008+

What about a direct replacement for those of us with a 2004 model?

My pinion bearing is whining. Nissan wants to replace the whole rear axle for $2500 and the local mechanics have no desire to change the pinion and carrier bearings. Apparently its a pain in the azz...or so they tell me.

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So the truck is in the shop and they swapped out TT no problems but it looks like they are having an issue with the axles bearings. The owner said he needs the snap ring and bearing lock to go with the new SKF BR10 bearings. I looked at an expoded view and it looks like maybe he took something out that he shouldn't. Has anyone run into this problem? I provided the oil seals #43252-7S200 but I thought it was on the end of the bearing. The shop told me the seal was on the inside and they had to take everything off to get at the oil seal.
Does the snap ring and spacer get reused and just the bearing replaced. HELP?

 

Timken Set 10 includes bearing, spacer, race for less than $30. Nissan charges a bunch more money and sells them separately. I dunno anything about SKF. Bearing, race, spacer are not reusable. The snap ring can be reused, if it was removed carefully and not destroyed.

 

Thanks bestatchess for the quick response. Just want to make sure the shop is telling me the right information. Not that a shop would ever mislead anyone :bangit:

 

the shop is right bearing and spacer have to be cut or destroy to change the seal

 

Got the truck back and everything worked out great. TrueTrac, carrier bearings, axle seals, axle bearings, spacers, 75-140 syn oil, and labor. Grand total cost $1500.00. Far better than the dealer 4k (w/tax) quote and a much better setup.

Few things for people like myself who didn't know anything about the install.
-The axle bearings (if you chose to replace) can be purchased from just about any manufacturer, Federal-Mogul, SKF, Timken, Dana, etc but you will need a new spacer which OEM is like $12.95. If you get the Timken SET10 it comes with the spacer. The lock ring is reused.
-Depending on if you have factory e-locker you will have two different length axles. The TT locker is designed for our trunks regardless of axle length. As per the folks at TrueTrac you just need a few shims so the locker doesn't bind up due to the longer axle. If you have a Titan with an open differential no need for shims.

Many thanks to everyone who replied to this thread and the PM's. TitanTalk to the rescue again!

 

I never shimmed mine (going from locker to TT) and I haven't had any binding issues yet. It's been about 5k miles, should I be worried?


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