Is there a gap between the lca and the frame where it mounts allowing the lca to move forward and back?

Loose motor mount?

 

Does it go away under braking? I had a similar issue, replaced my outer tie rob ends. Issue was still there, but if I was on the brakes it was gone. Turns out I needed to remove the rotor, clean up the rust and put some brake lube on the hub.

 

Loose fog lights? Skid plate? Both of these were lose on my 2011. Might be able to find it by lightly hitting stuff with your hand.

 

Do you have wheel spacers? Had a similar issue with my old set of wheels. Under 10 mph as I rolled thru my neighborhood, there was this flimsy metal rattle coming from the front end.

 

There is gap between LCA and LCA mount, not sure it is enough to warrant a rattle.

My motor mounts are pretty bad, not sure if they are ripped.

Fog lights are fine. Removed skid plate at the beginning, so that cannot be it.

No wheel spacers, stock 17-inch wheels.

I dropped it off at the shop this morning to see if they can diagnose the issue.

 

I have the exact same issue. I also have DK UCAs (old style) and Icon 2.5s. It seemed to start after installed the DK UCAs. I'm taking it to Nissan and see if they can help me find the issue.

 

Do you just hear it or feel it also? When I put on my dk ucas I had to bend the abs lines slightly to get the bolts in and out. The abs lines can contact the steering shaft causing a rattle. Although I could also feel it in the steering wheel. You can see the clearance between them looking under the hood. Just had to bend them back to fix it.

 

Can't FEEL rattle. I can HEAR it over small patchy pavement going ~10 mph. Shifty left to right rattle sound.

I will check the ABS lines, but pretty sure I kept them out of the way, no steering wheel feeling.

Stilling waiting on my local shop to see what they find, hopefully in the next hour or two.

 

sounds like my rattle. PRG Delrin spacers fixed the issue. Goes between the LCA and the LCA mount. The LCA's tend to move forward and back one small bumps and give you a rattle. Not always the fix, but it fixed it for me and a few others.

 

Well I got truck back from my local shop after work yesterday. They hear the rattle, but cannot locate it and they are pretty sure its coming from the suspension. I asked about the motor mounts and they said its highly unlikely its the mounts because I would feel the rattle.

 

Check the hood latch?

 

I drove around, in a safe area, with the hood up to eliminate that thought.

 

Wheel center cap popping?

 

Took caps out and left them out after powdercoating wheels, 4 years ago.

 

I appreciate all ideas and suggestions, if my replys do not seem like I do.

Troubleshooting this issue will take time and probably money, as I expect I will need to replace one item after another separately to find and correct this issue.

 

It may be your DK UCAs. I think the Heims on the original versions are noisy. I may switch mine out to there new style with bushing mounts. Thoughts?

 

check front U joint. mines making a rattle/grinding noise. worth a look

 

Cam bolts tight? If not be careful tightening them as you can throw off alignment.

Coil bucket bolts tight?

LCA to shock bolt tight?

I've heard heims on UCAs can get noisy over time too. The ones on my RC trac bars were terrible until I replaced them with prg heims. My bushing DKs make zero noise when properly greased.

Do the moogs have grease fittings? May need grease.

 

I do not think it is my brakes. I applied light pressure as I entered my slightly regular inclined driveway and still heard the rattle/rocking.

Thinking about getting the LCA PRG spacers and the PRG trans mount. Only place other that PRG directly would be PerformanceLifts.com correct?

 

prgproducts.com

 

I have something similar to what your explaining, small imperfections in the roads Im getting a clunking. Driving me crazy does it worse over the small bumps then the large ones for some reason.
At first I thought it felt like a loose calliper but checked and they were tight. I found a couple bolts that were loose where the diff mounts to the pro comp drop bracket. Couldn't find anything else loose.

 

It could just be age on the truck. May not be a concern, just a little old age showing through.

 

Probably directed at the OP I imagine.
My truck had 13 kilometres on the truck when the lift was installed, now has 1500

 

I've never been able to really diagnose anything this way but I've tried using a little Polaroid cube camera magnetically attached to the frame to record video of the suspension and whatnot. The camera works well, the magnet is really strong, and the cameras a fairly inexpensive. I think about $80 + $micro sd card. IDK might help you find the elusive clunk.

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I got this unused mobile cell that I will pair with a broken suction cup cell holder mount that has a bendable arm. I took off the broken suction part and will be adding some magnets with some epoxy to turn it into a magnetic mount. But that little project will not happen til next week. Waiting for payday.

 

Rez, did you ever resolve this? I'm experiencing a clunk and the only places I have any play are the passenger 4wd axle (maybe 1/16" MAX of play) and a slight click/clunk when I turn my steering wheel back and forth.


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Would love to know if this ever got solved and what it was. I have a 2012 SL CC 4x4 been dealing with a rattle and rough ride for at least 40,000 miles. All stock except I have Bilstein 5100’s on. I have replaced every suspension part but the springs and one LCA. I am suspecting the springs are shot as the original struts were shot when I changed them so thinking the springs have been flattened over time. Could kick myself for not changing them when I did the struts. So my other possibilities are engine mounts, transmission Mount and heat shields as well as the manifolds and cats having 131000 miles on them. My alignment has been done three times they say it’s fine yet truck pulls to the left and when parked you can see one tire points outward a bit.