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How to Replace Fuel Pump / Fuel Sending Unit (Bad Gas Gauge)

82K views 20 replies 16 participants last post by  nism0calypse  
#1 · (Edited)
First off, my bad gas gauge symptom was it never showed FULL and had at least 10 gallons in the tank when gauge read empty. Now, my gas gauge is very accurate! :)

Just provided this through PM to someone and thought I would share with everyone... I have an 04 Titan, which does not seem to be eligible for the fuel pump recall, so I replaced myself. Got new fuel pump from Advance Auto online for about $150 after a sale discount. $175 w/o.

The couple places I called wanted upwards of $500 for parts and labor. Even if you don't have the air compressor and tools to make this easier, you can buy them for what they charge for labor alone. And then you have them for next time! :)

I don't think I missed any steps here; questions ask away! Now I just need to find a cheap way to fix/replace the leaking manifolds.

*Recommend running tank near empty before attempting to remove. Near Empty tank is pretty light and can be handled by one person fairly easy.

1. Start truck and while running pull fuel pump fuse (In Engine Compartment Fuse Box) and let engine die out naturally to release fuel line pressure. Do not replace fuse until work is complete. Also, remove fuel cap to release any tank pressure.

2. Disconnect battery and chock front tires

3. Jack up Driver Rear side and remove tire.

4. Remove Front portion of wheel well. Small plastic piece; 2 screws (1 top towards bed and 1 underneath truck/fender) and 1 plastic retainer (mid way up, left side). Easier to remove by pushing in center and pulling top part out first - fender support bar at bottom makes it difficult to pull out from bottom.

5. Remove evaporator hose from evaporator (plastic box next to fuel tank). Plastic tabs need to be pushed out - I had to use 2 small screwdrivers to release the hose.

6. Remove fuel filler hose.

7. Remove fuel tank skid plate if applicable. I used an air wrench.

8. Use something to hold fuel tank, like a jack. Remove fuel tank straps. Lower tank some and let the front end come down lower than the rear. --I found this to be the easiest way to remove the fuel line hose and wire harness from pump.

9. Remove the fuel pump protective plate. Then you remove the fuel line and wire harness. The fuel line tabs are 2 push-in tabs. *Gas will still come out even with pressure released.

10. Drop tank all the way. *No need to remove 2nd hose (evaporator hose) from the pump itself until you pull the tank all the way out since you already disconnected the other end.

10. Remove evaporator hose from pump.

11. Remove fuel pump retainer ring. I used an air hammer.

12. Remove and Replace Pump. ***Do not forget to remove the fuel line retainer clamp from old fuel pump. Mine did not come off with the line and I did not realize it until after I got a phone call from the wife after the fact...lol

13. Reassemble in the reverse order.


I think I spent 3ish hours overall on it and that was wasting some time figuring out the evaporator hose clamp.
 
#2 ·
Very nice write up. Thanx.
 
#4 ·
Not all HVT.
 
#5 ·
Awesome. Thank you! My 2004 hit 60k and the fuel pump went out. $600 to do what you did at the dealer!
 
#9 ·
Thank you for the step by step plan. It took you about 3 hours. It took me much longer in my unsucessful effort to get Nissan to replace the sending unit as per recent service bulletin. How many 04/05 titans have less than 36,000 miles. If you purchased an extended warranty and have under 100,000 miles, maybe they will fix it. (Since you paid out the rear for the extra coverage, its not costing Nissan anything anyway) Oh -- since your truck is over 5 years old. you might think it prudent to replace your 5-year old fuel pump. -- thats not part of the bulletin --that expense is all yours. All that said. maybe they will fix a token number of titans, I would bet very few customers will be fixed "free".
Screw me once, shame on you, screw me twice, shame on me.:bangit:
 
#10 ·
I thought the 04 and up guys/gals not covered by the original recall would like to know that they will be able to get their fuel sending units fixed under the recall. I called Nissan and told them how much I loved my truck, and how the fuel sending units in other trucks were recalled for the same thing my truck was doing (2004 LE).

They started an investigation, and found there are a lot of us that should also be in on this. Call your dealer, ask them to do this for you. If they don't, call 800-NISSAN1 and ask them the same.

Worked for me, and my truck has 74K on it. Good luck. Enjoying the fact I don't show empty anymore with 13 gallons still in my tank.

PS Anyone in the PDX area, call Alan Webb Nissan. Great customer service. Ask for Toby. He knows about this deal. (I am not an employee of Nissan or Alan Webb, just a satisfied customer)

-Shawn
-Amarak on Club Titan
 
#11 ·
Do you have an extended warranty? I called them after this recall was released and tried to get them to fix my fuel gauge. They told me it was not part of the recall and was VIN specific to 2005+. I requested a goodwill and it was declined, they said because I wasn't the original owner and there was very little history with my vehicle.
 
#13 ·
I just spent 4 hours replacing my fuel pump. My 2004 Titan CC 4x4 LE got a brand new fuel pump courtesy of Advanced Auto Parts for $175.00, and everything went smooth except for the step
"12. Remove and Replace Pump. ***Do not forget to remove the fuel line retainer clamp from old fuel pump. Mine did not come off with the line and I did not realize it until after I got a phone call from the wife after the fact...lol"
Forgot to do step 12 but didn't take long to do it.
For the past week, I've been taking time to do some TLC to the underside of my Titan. Removing skid plates, sanding, washing, drying, priming, undercoating and painting everything applicable with necessary Rustoleum and Krylon products. I owe 4,000 on my truck and plan on never selling it, and I swear everyone that rides in my truck has nothing but great things to say about the quick throttle response, power and overall comfortable ride.
I even took off the Big Tow hitch and sanded, primed and painted it.
Thanks for the instructions, and appreciate the effort.
 
#15 ·
Same here my 05 just hit 130k miles.. Calling the stealership tomorrow to see if they will cover the pump change.. I asked early last year if I had any recalls and they said he was good to go. Bout time for new plugs too, think I got my money's worth out of that set. The truck just started to max out at 80mph and after that it just starts missing, jumps, and makes my tranny sound like crap. When I end up doing all this myself, is there enough room to maybe get a shop vac or air hose in there to somehow blow out and clean that fuel screen/filter? Without completely disconnecting the tank? Or is it maybe removable ? I love this truck! Thanks in advance guys..
 
#16 ·
Subscribed just in case Ive got to do this soon. Seems like when its cold out that the truck just doesn't want to fire up. It cranks hard but wont vroom! Im going to check the battery with the charger first thing before trying to start it. If it has good charge (at least 80%) Ill check it off and then listen for the fuel pump to pump while laying under the gas tank. Hope its the battery....
 
#17 ·
OK, so so far this is a total PITA.

I put my truck up on a two-rail lift... pretty sure this was a mistake. there is no comfortable way to get to the lines from under the truck working around the rails... it requires massive back-bending, and arm twisting, and head tilting.

Still had to remove wheel and wheel well plastic. Lift in the way again while trying to reach the lines on the tank.

The tabs on the carbon canister are part of the black ring (theres white and black plastic as part of the connector). the black tabs tilt in and catch a lip on the metal nipple as you try to pull back. lightly pry the tab away from each side of the lip. Its much simpler than you first think. Get a good flashlight in there and stare at it for a bit and remember ALL of the plastic (black and white) will need to come off the metal nipple. It took 5 minutes to wiggle it off the nipple too... lots of wiggling and grunting to work it all the way off once the tabs were past the lip.

the metal tabs on the fuel line have to be pinched just right... thats a plastic nipple, so be careful. I am only replacing the pump motor, so I didn't want to damage the plastic nipple.

the electrical connection will probably be dirty... the gray tab on the top in the center will need to be pushed down closest to the wires exiting the connector. You'll have to push down on the tab really hard and wiggle the connector to pry it off... all that dirt makes it tough to get off.

The tank will want to be heavy to the back end... lots more weight back there, and once it starts to tilt, it'll want to shift any fuel to the back. be careful.

If you do like me and try to replace just the motor... contact me. The new motor will look a little different but I can tell you what i did... you WILL need a short piece of fuel line to replace a hard plastic line that has to be cut off.

I'm only halfway done and 4 hours into it using a lift. Very frustrated. Really hoping it was the pump thats bad... I spun the old one up with a 12v battery and it runs, but it doesn't free-spin any after i remove power.

I'll try to come back with some pictures of the re-install...
 
#19 ·
Yes it's an old post but hopefully is very useful, ill find out tomorrow. Great write up, thank you. I have an 04 SE CC 4x4 and I guess I've been pretty lucky. I've had the manifold issue and am pretty sure I'm headed for round 2, replaced the rear End and transfer case last year and recently replaced the transmission but I just got home and have 436,037 miles on it so there is no way I'm going to complain. Not perfect by any means but yep, I still love it. Don't know if I'll ever throw in the towel. Here's to some pretty darn good trucks! I hope your Titans treat you like mine has me! She's like an old pair of boots, it just feels right.