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My headlights are done! easy switchback / resistor install

10K views 40 replies 17 participants last post by  honda250xtitan  
#1 ·
Finished them finally. Want to say thanks to JB for the headlights....love them! For the guys that want to do the switchbacks just make sure you get the resistors and an easy way to hook them up is the tail lights. Go to the middle light(blinker) and hook up the top part of the resistor to the green and the bottom to the black. I used posi-taps for an even easier install. Plus the taillight area has more room and metal to mount the resistor to as they get very hot in a short period of time. here is a video and some pics.
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2012-08-23_14-46-03_733 - YouTube
This one below, the lights are not on. That is how bright the ccfl's are.
2012-08-23_19-24-58_292 - YouTube
2012-08-23_19-25-53_840 - YouTube
 
#2 ·
They look sweet!!! :coolsmile

Good info on the wiring thanks!

Subcribin'!
 
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#6 ·
#7 ·
Hope mine come out just like yours!!! Those look great man, JB had kept telling me that the switchbacks ran amber all the time and then when turned your blinkers on they switch between white and amber which I didn't care for but I hope my run white all the time like yours and flash just amber.
 
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#9 ·
Thanks. Yea, there are a few different ones out there for sure. I had one set that ran amber and when you hit the blinker they would blink white then I reversed the wires where it would run white but then it would only blink amber in the middle and white on the frt and back of the led.

Here is what the led looked like. Notice it only has one color type for the frt face and end and another for the middle.
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After I reversed the wire, it did light white on face and end but alternated with the amber in the middle.
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#12 ·
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#17 ·
Makes sense, thanks man! Seems pretty easy, I just didn't really see the point with the way the switchbacks were that everyone else is getting that run amber and just flash white, defeats the purpose IMO, the way you have it is perect though, can't wait!
Thanks again!
 
#18 ·
I noticed in your vids that the delay between the white and amber was very minimal compare to other vids I have seen on here, is it the resistor or the led that control this? Sorry if this is a novice question just very interested in these switchbacks.
 
#19 ·
I did notice some on youtube too where the switch took a little longer too. I don't think your question is novice at all and to be honest I think its just luck of the draw with where you get them from and how well their made, etc. I only trust a few places to buy from for quality. If I had to guess though I would say its the resistor. Sorry I'm not much help.
 
#23 ·
Hey rbt I could be wrong but did you say that you had bought another set of switchbacks besides the ones JB sold you? If so do you have a link? Also do you know if our sockets are CK or standard configuration?

I was looking at getting a set from VLEDS and they said to check the wiring before you order the swicthbacks to make sure you get the right ones (Either CK or Standard) I've searched and searched all over google and TT and can't find an answer, I want to get the 5k version soon to match the halos in the new Spyders I got from JB just like yours.
 
#24 ·
I did. I have 3 sets....lol Some that light white and blink amber, some amber that blink white, & some amber that blink both...lol I ended up keeping JB's in because I do like the contrast of amber at the top especially since I have the spyder leds wired. I saw those and it also said you weren't supposed to use them as day running lights plus they were more expensive than everyone else so I just went somewhere else.

All New 57 Lights Bi-Color LED 3157 Switchback LED Turn Signal Bulbs
 
#30 ·
Thanks for posting that man! I was still a little worried about buying one or the other type without knowing for sure but now I can rest assured knowing I get the right ones the first time :D Thanks for all the vids too. I like the color of white of the set 2 you posted but don't care that the white flashes too. Set 3 is how I want mine to flash except but without the bluish tint so really hoping this set I order works perfect :)
 
#32 · (Edited)
What size and wattage resistors are everyone using? If you are doing all 4 blinkers I believe you would use 2 3ohm resistors correct? And what wattage 50 or 75, I am guessing 50? I have mine coming from JB and want to make sure I get the right resistors. Thanks for the wire switching tip.
 
#33 ·
I bought some off ebay, 50 watt 6 ohm, havn't tried them yet but I'm going to install them at the tail lights for more space after I throw the switchbacks in.
 
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#35 · (Edited)
I did some research and 50watt seems to be the most common. Also if you plan on doing all four you will need the 3ohm. I am waiting on mine from JB right now and can't wait to get them in. I just changed out my rear taillights and I found the perfect spot for the resistor.

New and old just no comparison, reminds me I need to sell those lol
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#40 · (Edited)
You're using a term (load) that is misleading you. The resistance "load" dictates the current draw. Higher resistance load gives less of a current draw, based on the basic formula of V=IR where V is the Voltage, I is the amps of current draw and R is the Resistance. To isolate the current draw, divide both sides by R and you get I = V/R. So you can see that using a volatage, V, of 12 volts and varying the resistance changes the value of I which is the current draw. Two examples:

Resistance load of 1 ohm is 12/1 for V/R, giving a current draw of 12 amps.
Resistance load of 1000 ohms is 12/1000 for V/R giving a current draw of .012 amps.

Your truck is freaking out and doing the hyperblink because it's drawing too much power right now. It's looking for that resistance load to know that there's a bulb back there, the bulb being a resistor.

Make sense?
 
#41 ·
:huh::ftard::ftard::confused::fktardxpl