Well, these are the traction arms im building. They run a urethane maount on the axle end and a heim on the frame end to allow for good articualtion. The axle mount replaces the u-bolt plate and protects the bolts form damage shoudl you drag the axle on something. The frame end is a weld on set-up, but could be bolted if you wanted to. These are designed to be very strong and still allow clearance. They will be powder coated except for the frmae mount becasue the welding. We are thinking of a price around $475 ish for the pair.
PrerunnerGreg
No More Axle Wrap
Well, these are the traction arms im building. They run a urethane maount on the axle end and a heim on the frame end to allow for good articualtion. The axle mount replaces the u-bolt plate and protects the bolts form damage shoudl you drag the axle on something. The frame end is a weld on set-up, but could be bolted if you wanted to. These are designed to be very strong and still allow clearance. They will be powder coated except for the frmae mount becasue the welding. We are thinking of a price around $475 ish for the pair.
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They will allow full suspension movement. They will easily allow 12" of verticle movement and full articulation.
It will ft stock trucks, mine is only about 1" taller than stock. The difference under hard acceleration is fantastic. It just kinda launches forward and the rear squats alot more now. it just feels alot more solid.
Greg,PrerunnerGreg said:
no offence but $475 ish.... for those... is ludicrous IMHO... although i do enjoy your leveling kit.
Although the price of these is higher than what I was hoping, I am curious on what the basis of your above statements are?vector6 said:
Do you know of an equal quality unit for hundreds less?
Consider this too.
The lowest Fabtech traction bar price I found was more than $100 greater. "TITAN TRACTION BARS Part Number: FABFTS65000BK. Our price: $583.00. ..."
And these are according to PRG, an inferior product.
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/showpost.php?p=372024&postcount=11
also shown here:
"As for the traction bars, here's the scoop. The procomp bars are actually ok, if you like that look but they are a one-size-fits-all application, which can cause spring bind and you will loose travel and ride quality. The fabtech bars claim to "float" but the reality is that they are mounted solidly to the rear end, and they force the axle to rotate about the front pivot (even though it is floating) and this is really bad for ride and is hell on the springs. Imagine this, if you have 10" of travel, the front pivot "should" move up and down 10" with the axle. Neat idea for a drag car with 2" of movment, but not for my truck. The bars im working on will be 1.5" .120 wall DOM tubing, in a triangle shape to help protect the driveshaft a little bit and add strength, use a 3/4 teflon-lined heim on one end and a urethane bushing on the other. It will use a different spring plate that will replace the stock one and add protection to the nuts on the u-bolts, and the other end will mount to the side of the frame (it will be welded, cringe...shreek!!). But its about a 30 minute job to mount and will allow a full 12" of suspension travel without binding the springs, while completely eliminating axle wrap. And they will be alot less expensive than the fabtechs."
Edit: and the best Pro comp price was $435 shipped to WV: (traction bars $250, Required mounting kit $143, and shipping $42).
I agree that the price is kinda steep. But after building ten sets, thats what they cost. The procomp bars run about $400-425 and dont offer the lower bolt protection or the expensive hiem mounts. These mounts are critcal to proper bind-free operation. We are doing our best to bring the manufacturing costs down though. Our original price point was $350-400, but quaility parts arent cheap. We are actually offering the first run for a very reduced price, pm me if interested.
Greg, how were you able to compensate for the axle moving reward duing spring compression? I know a lot of Jeep folks use single traction bars with a shackle on the frame side to allow longitudinal movement. You always hear how rigid ladder-bar type setups will cause binding because they don't allow the axle to move with the leaves but only in an arc along the radius of the bars.
Ladder bars do cause binding, unless the rear can rotate through its travel. These bars , like any other, do make the axle swing in an arc, but I designed them with a 12" travel limit and the fore/aft movement is around 1/4", easily split between the spring an the urethane mount. I revavled my shocks yesterday morning and was able to cycle the rear and get no bind or odd movements. Keep in mind that most titans will maybe cycle around 9-10". For the street guys, what about a single link arm that would just consist of a single tube that runs forward, this would bring the cost down substancially.
Just curious about ride quality for street use and daily driving? I do not like the excessive wheel hop over road ripples from my big tow springs when the vehicle is not loaded or weighed down. Is there a noticeable improvement in toning down the rear end and is the compromise a bit more jarring ride?
Also, I am would not be thrilled in welding a bracket onto my frame and wondering if there is a bolt on option that might be able to use an existing hole through the frame?
Also, I am would not be thrilled in welding a bracket onto my frame and wondering if there is a bolt on option that might be able to use an existing hole through the frame?
The bolt on helper spring mod per JetTech seem to me to control wheel hop. Did you try that yet? I think they go for less than $30.herbinated said:
I haven't tried the helpersprings because I concur with Flight Tech that the clamping of the springs in front of the axle would do most of the work and I see the potential long term problem of the front part of the helper spring always moving forward. I will try the spring clamp at some point but the traction bars have a higher niftiness coefficient.
Ok, been thinking and doing some homework. For guys that want a street application, we could builld traction bars, using the same lower mount (because its super strong) but possibly go with urethane on both ends, as it can really help prevent body roll and work as a sway bar. This will work well on trucks that dont get off-roaded much or that are tring to get the most wheel travel. These will also be much, much less expensive than the off-road versions. I will get some numbers up ina day or so. Mine are working so well that i think the guys trying to maximise thier street performance will love these.
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