Hey, I hope the pics help you out. Pretty easy install once you get down to it.
Later,
Chris

DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - NISSAN / TITAN / 2004 / Remote Start


12volts = green (40A) + ignition harness
Starter = brown + ignition harness
Second Starter = lt. green or blue/green + ignition harness
Ignition = black/red + ignition harness
Second Ignition = N/A
Third Ignition = N/A
Accessory = red + ignition harness
Second Accessory = purple + ignition harness
Keysense = red/blue to black/red + ign harn or BCM R of column, pin 37
Power Lock = blue - driver door module in door
Power Unlock = red (double pulse) - driver door module in door
Lock Motor = purple 5wi BCM to right of column, pin 65
Unlock Motor = green 5wi BCM to right of column, pin 59
Parking Lights = + red/blue + dimmer switch on dash
Parking Lights= - N/A
Hazards = white/black - BCM to right of column, pin 29
Turn Signal(L) = green/black + BCM to right of column, pin 60
Turn Signal(R) = green/yellow + BCM to right of column, pin 61
Reverse Light = green/white + inside rearview mirror
Door Trigger = see notes - BCM to right of column
Notes: The LF door trigger is lt. blue in pin 47. The RF door trigger is red/blue in pin 12. The LR door trigger is red/yellow in pin 48. The RR door trigger is red/white or gray in pin 13. Use all four wires and diode isolate each.
Dome Supervision blue - BCM to right of column, pin 63
Notes: The blue wire is for the dome lights and puddle lights. For the step lights use red/white in pin 62 at the BCM.
Trunk/Hatch Pin N/A
Hood Pin N/A
Trunk/Hatch Release N/A
Power Sliding Door N/A
Factory Alarm Arm arms with lock
Factory Alarm Disarm disarms with unlock
Disarm No Unlock single pulse power unlock wire
Tachometer NOT white/blue or black ac any ignition coil
Wait to start N/A
Brake Wire = red/green or red/black + brake pedal switch
Parking Brake = green - parking brake switch or cluster
Horn Trigger = red/white - horn switch
Memory Seat 1 = lt. green/black - memory mod. left of column, pin 9
Memory Seat 2 = pink/blue - memory mod. left of column, pin 25
Memory Seat 3 N/A -
Immobilizer Bypass Module: Required: Yes Type: Transponder Part #: 556U or 555U
Notes: N/A



This wiring information is being provided free of charge on an "as is" basis, without any representation or warranty. It is your responsibility to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using a digital multimeter.
Directed electronics, Inc. assumes no responsibility with regards to the accuracy or currency of this information. Proper installation in every case is and remains the responsibility of the installer. DEI assumes no liability or responsibility resulting from improper installation, even in reliance upon this information.​

 

why can't you select the door lock + and - under the dash and not inside the door? Don't all the wires come into the cab?

Clint

 

whoa! those pics help a lot. I have an alarm that I have been holding off on cause I didn't know where the wires were. cool.

 

That's a great post Chris. It will help me when I install my unit.

 

why can't you select the door lock + and - under the dash and not inside the door? Don't all the wires come into the cab?

Clint

hehe...I asked that question when installing my unit...the tech who helped me said.." alright to begin, u need to know how door locks work..." In our trucks their are a lot of relays, resistors, and such and power gets cut down from the switch down till when it gets into the cab SO u wont get a reliable 6-12V feed if u tap into the same wire somewhere down the line...U can look up how our truck is setup or how door locks work and figure it out more but thats the best I can do right now, Im just waking up...Hope that helps any though and if not maybe someone else can chime in...

 

Thanks, now I understand. Guess is like too long a run of speaker wire.
I need to look and see how to get the wires through the door, the jamb and kick panel. For some reason, the pictures of the install in the previous post won't open today.

Clint

 

couldn't look any easier now than if you came and installed it for me. will start about noon todaty. if i need help you can bet i will post for help agiain. thanks.

 

That's a great post Chris. It will help me when I install my unit.

Exactly the reason this needs to be saved as a sticky! :bouncy:

 

couldn't look any easier now than if you came and installed it for me. will start about noon todaty. if i need help you can bet i will post for help agiain. thanks.

This is the most informative post I've ever seen in a forum. This took away dozens of questions.
As stated before, it's as if you were here to do it for us. Thank you.

Clint

 

Sorry the Pics went down, I'm using a free file hosting site now. Should be back up. I'm more than happy to help, this site and it's members have helped me out, so I'm just paying it forward.

 

hehe...I asked that question when installing my unit...the tech who helped me said.." alright to begin, u need to know how door locks work..." In our trucks their are a lot of relays, resistors, and such and power gets cut down from the switch down till when it gets into the cab SO u wont get a reliable 6-12V feed if u tap into the same wire somewhere down the line...U can look up how our truck is setup or how door locks work and figure it out more but thats the best I can do right now, Im just waking up...Hope that helps any though and if not maybe someone else can chime in...

Tech left out some info...

The reason for using the wires from switch module is that it is the only place you can get a normal ground signal from the key cylinder switch. This ground signal is detected by the door switch module and sent as a serial digital signal to the BCM. Trying a wire in between could fry the door module.

 

btw, great pics, Chrismulkey25!

:rockon

Wish I had those on hand during my alarm/rs install.

 

That is a great job with pictures and all chrismulkey25.:rockon

 

where is the neutral safety switch. my remote start says to hook a wire up to it. i can't find it i need help. lights on dash come on and then go off

 

just ground the neutral safety switch. normally, it should be connected to the wire that shows ground whenever the shifter is in Park but most modern vehicles have this feature built in.

 

tryed that. grounded to the frame temporarly but still didn't work. do i need to ground to that wire? where is the switch?

 

If all the dash lights come on but no start, make sure that the bypass module (Transponder Part #: 556U or 555U) is installed correctly and working, make sure you have the extra key installed. As for the programming of the alarm just set the neutral safety switch to (-) and ground it to the frame. All the alarm will do before it starts is make sure theres a negitive ground, (and there will be when you ground it), then the truck will start. I can't get a wiring diagram for your remote start model "Valet 561r" off of directeds website, if you can scan yours and let me see it I can help you through this.

 

shouldn't need a bypass module. truck doesn't have the imobilizer, atleast the light on the dash doesn't light up.

 

Which model trim level is your truck, XE, SE, or LE? Just to save time, if your truck is SE or LE, Have you tried placing a key against the ignition switch and tried to start with the remote? Maybe the truck does have the immobilizer and you're not aware of it. I still believe you will get this working and not need a shop to do it.

Clint

 

xe trim level. in the wiring list on previous posts it lists a second starter wire, does this need to be hooked to something?

 

xe trim level. in the wiring list on previous posts it lists a second starter wire, does this need to be hooked to something?

you are right that you don't have an immobilizer because your trim level is an XE.

yes, the 2nd starter wire needs to be hooked up. it should be done so using a standard 30A automotive relay. it will have numbers for the contacts and it should be wired up as such:

30 = +12V (constant) from ignition harness
85 = +12V from 1st starter wire
86 = ground
87 = connect to 2nd starter wire
87a = no connect

 

will try this. if it works i'm naming my second child FOOdstamps

 

where is the neutral safety switch. my remote start says to hook a wire up to it. i can't find it i need help. lights on dash come on and then go off

Does the r/s turn over the engine? If so, then the neutral safety wire isn't the problem, and you can look elsewhere. If it doesn't, check the manual for a configuration setting. If it is currently configured for a +12v and you are grounding it, the r/s will always think the shifter is out of neutral, and it won't turn over.

To confirm if you need a transponder bypass, pull off the vinyl fascia surrounding the ignition switch (if you hadn't already done so) and look for a black plastic housing surrounding the ignition switch. (see pic below) If so, you have the antitheft system and will need a transponder bypass. The loops of wire you see around the transponder is part of my bypass device.

 

i do confirm mine does not have the anti theft. i did ground the neutral safety wire to the frame. the motor does not turn over but the relays under the hood can be heard as well as the ones in the remote start and the dash lights blink. the error code given by the unit is -/+. but the manual does not give an explanation of what that is.

 

try "learning the tach" feature in the manual. it might not help but worth a try.