The pan will only buy you time, but it couldn't hurt to have it.

The best thing you can do right now is use some kind of obd2 interface to watch the actual temp numbers for both engine and transmission. It's also wise to make sure you have the belly pan in place as well as the other pieces around the rad that are there to promote smooth airflow through the rad.

 

When I put the CSF radiator in I put the foam air blockers back in also. My e-fans came with a shroud that covers the entire back side of the radiator: http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-performance-modifications/196929-my-e-fan-setup.html

I do wonder if my e-fans are pulling as many CFM as the OEM clutch fan did.

 

They might not be? It seems weird though, 2 e-fans should do it no problem.

 

No kidding. They make enough noise that it sounds like the Titan is taking off on a runway.

 

Seeing the actual temps is what is needed IMO. I think the sensors over react when the temps raise slightly and the gauges go ape Sh$t. I have taken temps on my truck when the trans gauge is showing hot and it really isn't.

In comparison I just did a 2600 mile trip in my wife's Titan pulling our TT, 7400 loaded and bed full of gear with 3 passengers and a dog. 1000 miles to PA was easy. 590 Miles from PA to Asheville NC was interesting. A lot of 3rd gear climbs at 3500rpms with no temp issues. On I-40 about 25 miles out of Asheville there is 8% climb where all the big rigs were in the climbing lane doing 25-30mph. I got stuck behind them for about a mile. I was easily climbing in 2nd gear with no strain on the truck at all. Finally got a brake in traffic and took a left lane and easily ran to 3rd at 55mph for the remainder of the climb. Outside temps were 88-89* and again no temp issues.

So for you to be pulling 2600 extra pounds and getting hot, there is no good reason. I really think is a sensor issue more than a over heating problem.

 

I don't mean to put your mountains down but I-40 east of Nashville doesn't appear to get over 3,000' elevation. That is quite a bit different from 9,000'.

On another thread someone said that towing with an Uprev performance tune may not be the best idea in the world. That didn't occur to me as I was headed up the mountain pass.

 

well they are not my mountains so I don't give a phuck. your pulling 2000 pounds and over heating, I am pulling 7400 plus gear and not over heating. IMO the sensors are over reacting. Good luck chasing your problem.

 

Yes, the PML pan is great. Pulling through the desert for years and no issues.

 

I had both exhaust manifolds replaced today. Both were cracked. I have to wonder if that might have contributed to my overheating issue. I'll know for sure in a week when I drive the same route to the mountains with a similar load.

 

I would suspect the electric fans with the enclosed shroud. The mechanical fan with a fan clutch moves a lot of air.

 

My trip to the mountains is complete. Zero engine overheating. I had to get down to 2nd gear a couple times to keep the transmission temperatures down and the engine handled that quite well. To me, it looks like the cracked exhaust manifolds may have contributed to the engine overheating.

 

Increasing the engine speed (gearing down) to reduce the transmission temperature works, but at the cost of a hotter engine. There is the dilemma: hot engine vs hot transmission.

Does anyone think that the PML deep transmission pan with it's additional 3 quart capacity would have made that much of a difference? What else could be changed to help?

I have the PML pan and it is the best unappreciated mod around.

Towed a trailer with 5,000 lbs up to D.C. in the summer heat and in stop/go traffic with no spike at all.

Given that you're at altitude, what about a larger capacity transmission cooler as well?

 

I think I'm likely to go with the PML transmission pan first.

 

I had zero engine overheating this trip. So I think the e-fans are doing OK.

 

I larger cooler is 1/4 of the price & will work a lot better than a PML pan.

 

Not necessarily, I agree, that adding cooling with our trans, especially if you are pulling/towing is beneficial. However, adding more fluid and cooling surface (as in the PML deep pan) is the proper/cleaner way to do it.

 

AZPRO4X is right.....

But the pm pan is awsome

 

I'm with RobKar. Putting in a new pan is a plug-and-play modification. A new cooler requires adding hoses, mounting the cooler, and then the whole decision of bypassing the OEM cooler and the line running through the radiator.

It seems to me that if Nissan had mounted the OEM transmission cooler in front of the A/C condenser that it would be more effective. It isn't exactly a small cooler, but it's secondary to the A/C condenser so it doesn't have first dibs on the cool air. (I don't run my A/C when towing up an incline so it shouldn't matter that much, but still...)

 

PML pan won't change your at operating temp at all. Your tranny will run at the same temp with or without the PML pan. The pan does however offer other benifits, temperature isn't one of them..... it will take longer to warm up Vs stock pan but once it's sly said and done, I still run at the same operating temp with my PML.....

If you want it cooler I'd get both external tranny cooler and the PML pan. But by all means the pan won't do anything as far as temperature goes

 

My cooler solved all of my recurring temp issues I was having on the normal switchbacks on the road I take to go camping. it was $80 vs $200. Oil is going to get hot regardless if it's 2qts or 4qts so adding fluid capacity isn't going to help that much. Go over to the HD forums and they pretty much agree that PML pans are more of a feel good & the diff covers are look cool products with minimal results.

 

I don't care how many cooling fins are on any kind of pan, they won't do much for cooling. The added capacity will only prolong the buildup of heat.

 

Sure, cooling fins and extra mass won't make any difference ... Kinda like heating a cup of water vs a gallon? Maybe you should remove the cooling fins from your computer, after all, the chip will heat up anyway!

 

I guess my results differ from most, but then again my TT is only 8,000LBS and with the low millage I have on my truck, it could be that I just don't have the experience with it. I mean just last year coming home from the lake, it was only 113 degrees out and that lasted for about 400 of the 800 miles.

Sure, I have installed a few coolers, but they are messy and can cause other heating issues depending on where they are installed. As for me, the PML worked great and still working great. Yep, its more costly when I change my fluid like I did this year, but the extra protection is worth it. As for the naysayers... Ask a transmission guy that works on the big stuff :rofl:

 

The point I got was that it takes longer to heat more fluid. Based on how quickly a transmission can come up to temperature without the radiator plumbed in tells me that it would only take a dozen or so extra miles to do the same with a few extra quarts in the pan.
I'm not knocking the PML pan at all, It looks like a great piece. If I had to choose between an extra, cooler, larger cooler, or the pan it would be the cooler and I wouldn't even be considering the pan.
The pan isn't designed to be a cooler, it's meant to add capacity and help extend maintenance intervals. The "cooling fins" are mostly there to help sell the pan, just like overstated horsepower gains from intake and exhaust systems.

 

OK, so like I said, if adding mass and fins make no difference in the long run why have them at all?

Let me point a few things out because in the world of heat dissipation and fluid dynamics this my help a few understand better.

The stock pan is just a metal cover, no cooling and no fluid control:

The PML is thick Aluminum with fluid control, and because its aluminum the thermal conductivity is much better then the stamped metal cover. Trying to not get to technical but the conductivity of aluminum is ~205 "k - W/(m.K)" Where the stamped OEM cover is ~ 20 "k - W/(m.K). Meaning that aluminum is over 10 times better at dissipating heat. Now you have to take into account that there is more mass (metal wise), flow control, and the extra quarts of fluid. Oh, and lets not forget the fins :wink:

Do what you want with your truck, I don't care... I just want to be sure that anyone who is reading this gets a little more information.

One more thought, if you live in cold environments, or visit them ( think snow skiing) then don't bypass the radiator cooler. Heating the fluid so that the transmission works correctly is just as important as keeping it cool...

 

I tested this morning.

59 degrees outside, let truck warm up for 60 seconds, drove 2.2 miles at 35mph then 17.9 Miles at 80mph and my transmission hit the regular operating temp.....

If I had to make the decision of pml pan or tranny cooler again.... I'd defiantly get the tranny cooler and bypass the tranny warmer we get from factory

 

I cool/cold weather If I drive the Titan easy my Tranny never warms up.

 

I still never said the pan wouldn't help with cooling, but It it has a minimal effect at best. The entire transmission case is aluminum btw.

Also, my bypassed transmission works fine in cold weather. It reaches about 130-140° on the coldest of days and never exceeds 200° on the hottest days. I do realize that some features will not work until it reaches a certain temperature, but that temperature is quite low....my guess is about 120-ish.

The real reason for a radiator pass through is not just for heating the fluid. It also helps keep temps under control by being a much more efficient means of conductivity.....And my Long tru-cool is mounted directly to the ac condensor.

 

I still never said the pan wouldn't help with cooling, but It it has a minimal effect at best.

Sorry, I have to study some of this stuff, and you are wrong. The change is dramatic. No more discussing from me, believe what you want.

Also, my bypassed transmission works fine in cold weather. It reaches about 130-140° on the coldest of days and never exceeds 200° on the hottest days. I do realize that some features will not work until it reaches a certain temperature, but that temperature is quite low....my guess is about 120-ish.

Good guess, but the I belive the spec I read was ~ 150-160

The real reason for a radiator pass through is not just for heating the fluid.

I think you have been misinformed, enjoy the bliss. I mean why go to the trouble of making a unique radiator, when you can just bypass it with something that will stay cooler?

 

"I have taken temps on my truck when the trans gauge is showing hot and it really isn't."

That is good info to know. Thanks.

 

HRTKD - Do you drive around with the winch on the front? Or are you removing it?

I know it looks like part of the problem was from the manifolds, but just wondering since I have 4 Hella lights in that lower opening. I assume they must cut off quite a bit of airflow.

 

My winch is permanently attached. It doesn't block the upper opening at all and less than half of the lower opening. I understand where you're going with that. Any blockage of the openings at the front limits the amount of air that can get to the coolers. It's a valid concern. The winch has been on for 7 years and it was only recently that I've seen the engine overheat.