Many dads bridge was out and I went up and down the bank out was pretty steep. Didn't even go in 4x4 I have pro comp mts there was even water at the bottom. I was impressed.

 

The tires are key. I had Badyear Duraslicks (Goodyear Duratracs for those who aren't proficient in the language of sarcasm) and those POS garbage super expensive crappyass tires couldn't drive across wet grass without getting stuck...

Scorpion ATR's and this thing is a beast... goes anywhere, in all conditions. Lesson learned.

 

You must of bought cheap knock off's or something

 

As they all said, tires are everything!

 

2WD. Why go mudding in a lifted 2WD truck and be upset when you get stuck?

 

Not sure if you're referring to me but I never said anything about mudding. To me when I say ruts or rutted trails I mean where for sure you need ground clearance to get through like the trails that arent used often that have large dips or holes where the suspension flexes pretty good. Basically jeep stuff. Trust if I had the money to afford a 4x4 I would but the same truck same year around same mileage they wanted almost 4 more grand which I couldn't do since I was paying all cash upfront. Plus with all the front diff problems I read it pushed me away.

 

Tires can make a huge difference.

Open diffs are a hindrance, especially in a 2wd. You become a 1wd if you lose traction on one side, and that's no good. Something you can try in the future if you run into this problem again, and can't back out of it (always the first option - reverse out) is to lightly apply the brakes so you create some resistance on the "free" wheel. Once you get some resistance, your open diff will then apply torque in a more balanced way (because, hey, the laws of physics!) and you might get unstuck. You might not. In most trucks, I'd argue to engage the e-brake a click or two at a time to create this resistance, but in our trucks you run the risk of overheating the e-brake and having it grenade, compounding your problem. So just lightly apply your brakes and see if that helps. The best option, of course, is a TruTrac or Spartan Locker (like the Lok-Right). You might see what someone would charge to install a Spartan in your diff, since it goes in the existing open carrier. Some folks install them by grinding the corners off a couple of teeth on the ring gear so they don't have to remove the carrier, but I'm not a fan of grinding hardened ring gear teeth, even just a little bit. It's too easy to just remove the carrier and install the locker and put it all back in. A competent diff shop should be able to do it pretty quickly and economically. Might be worth replacing the bearings while in there, just because you don't want to reopen the diff any time soon. Kind of like always replacing the throwout bearing when you do a clutch. Cheap enough parts compared to the labor to remove and replace, that you just do it while you're in there.

Beyond that, avoid ruts when you can, as they're not your friend.

 

Hmm I've read about the brake thing and tried the night I got stuck but it didn't help. But I'm sure there's a specific way to do it.

That spartan locker sounds like a good idea since there isnt alot of modification don't to the diff. Is it hard to come by the oem e locker? Would they be cheaper than aftermarket options? And does anyone know how you can see what gears your truck comes with? Like certain letters in the Vin or something?

 

Most of you guys are 4x4's no? Don't all of those come with the e locker? I live in California and just couldn't see the extra money they were asking for a 4x4's when Im 90% street. The other 10% are just trails for fun or getting to campsites, riding spots or my shooting spots.

The weird thing about tires is I had the federal MT's on my open diff chevy only in 285/70/17 with 4" lift. The same tires came with my titan only in 35x12.50.20 which is even a bigger footprint. Both with open diffs and I take the same trails and I can feel the titan slip more than the Chevy did. Weird.

 

With mud you want tall, thin tires. You want to get through the mud into the harder clay/rock. Wide tires are not good for mud.

Normally the easiest way to tell your gearing is to drive 70 and check RPM's, but you're on 35's. Don't know how much that changes your RPM's.

 

With mud you want tall, thin tires. You want to get through the mud into the harder clay/rock. Wide tires are not good for mud.

Yeah I know what you mean I've read that also. But on the west coast, in cali we barely get rain as it is so mud is not really a common thing. Plus I would never try mud with a 2wd I know for sure I'll get stuck if I'm getting stuck in lose dirt No question about it lol

 

Sorry, when you say ruts I automatically think dirt road that's been run through when it's muddy.

 

I find the titan alot more snappy and it's to easy to spin out on lose dirt or gravel. I hammer though everything with momentum in 2wheel. 4x4 sure is nice though. Where I live I have to have it and would never even consider a truck without it. The next vehicle I get I'm hoping will have at least a rear locker for that much more traction.

 

The reason you're getting more slippage with the Titan is probably two things. First, it has more torque to the wheels than the Chevy, I'm betting. Second, wider footprint means less pressure per square inch of contact, so the tires spin more easily in loose dirt and gravel, as you don't get as much downforce on the tread, so to speak. Wider tires will actually sometimes spin more easily on pavement because they don't have as much downforce, too, but you also face more friction with the wider footprint which can balance it a bit. But the real culprit is the power, I suspect. Chevy just isn't as responsive to the throttle as the T.

The only place wider tires are good is sand, where you want the flotation.

 

I think you're right about that this truck feels more responsive with the gas pedal and with it having more torque makes it worse, well not worse overall just in some stuff like loose gravel and loose dirt lol I've thought about going down to 33's just to get some power and mileage back but it might look funny with a 6" lift. I've thought about going 37's just to fill in the gap more.

 

You should prerunner your truck, 30k later you will fly over that stuff at 65mph. If you had a Hi Lift (jack) you could have gotten it out with a few more sticks. Be prepared

 

Lol! Wish I had that kind of money. Atleast take off my brackets lift and get a mid travel kit put on. Can you put mid travel kits with bracket lifts? That way you got lift for looks and the travel kit for go time lol

I've seen those the ones jeep guys use. But you need offroad bumpers for those no?

 

All 4wd Titans do not have the locker, only the Pro 4x and some LE's. I rarely put my truck in 4wd, usually deep snow and ice, run around fine in 2wd with the Duratracs and my open diff.

 

For the earlier model years the Off-road package had the e-locker.

Exactly what i was going to say, mine is an 05 SE Offroad and has the e-locker.

 

I tore through red sands in el paso, Tx . A mini version of glamis after it rained some with my setup. I was also goin alot faster than most would consider safe and there was no one out there that day.

 

For the earlier model years the Off-road package had the e-locker.

 

Exactly what i was going to say, mine is an 05 SE Offroad and has the e-locker.

Yep, the Pro4x before it was an actual model...

 

Don't know if someone also said this but airing down to about 20 psi helps a ton. Helped me get unstuck in snow once. You can go lower if you've got bead locks.

 

I drive at 15PSI in the sand, never an issue. You can go to 12 w/o bead locks.

 

AWESOME SAND TRICK ? Is This The Best Way to Get Out of the Sand? ? Speed Society

 

I have saw a couple things similar to this

 

That's how deep I got lol but with a large hill on the passenger side and so it got the rear suspension flexing like crazy lol to where the one wheel that was getting all the power was just floating in air. And the other having perfect traction. Damn I wish I could afford a locker lol it'd be a peace of mind knowing I have it.

 

It was basically like this but just flexing a tad bit more. Idk how but even the rear tire that had perfect traction was tucked further than what it was in this picture... And in this picture it was loose rocks/gravel and it spun the wheel on the other side everytime I gave it gas. Launching rocks everywhere and it doesnt even look that bad .. Good thing I was able to back out.

 

Without a locker or tru trac you have an open diff. Which powers the wheel with the least traction. So all of your power went to the passenger side tire which probably didn't have much weight on it and thus the least traction. & My forums app doesn't show sigs

Lol just went back and read your original post. Sorry for repeating ya. Anyway ya I think that would be tough for most open diff trucks to get out of.

 

Yeah I might just need to save up for a locker..or sell the T and get a wrangler lol jk what are some brands that arent too expensive but do not require alot of modifications to the diff?

Ive also been contemplating taking off my procomp 6" lift and going with a spindle lift and performance shocks. Is it worth it ? Can you use the PC spindles without the drop down bracket? Or Would it be the same thing just adding that to my bracket lift? I'm kinda digging the mid travel suspension titans ive seen but some of those kits are like 3 grand! But it looks like fun!

Since it's titled titan capabilities what I have noticed is this truck can move! Even with 35's lol burned a single cab looked like an 99-06 style sierra. Not sure if it was v6 or v8 but he had the weight advantage. I need to get me a go pro or something like that to record these things lol. Like a 15- 20mph roll he floored, I chased he had the lead for like 4 secs up until I hit higher rpms then I just pulled hard lol I let off around almost 95mph. The idea of those speeds or higher and MT's don't sound to good lol I know most are rated at 100 max.

 

Bump bump would like some help or some info on what I posted