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Replacing Rear Axle Seal?

55K views 67 replies 32 participants last post by  iplaid  
#1 ·
I have a small axle seal leak on my 05 with 48k on it. What would be the Quickest and cheapest way to fix. Would it be ok to take it to a regular Shop.
 
#2 ·
nellup3 said:
I have a small axle seal leak on my 05 with 48k on it. What would be the Quickest and cheapest way to fix. Would it be ok to take it to a regular Shop.
It's still under warranty. Have the dealer do it.
 
#25 ·
My 06 Titan has the same problem. So as long as I'm under 60k miles the dealer should cover the repair under warranty? Even if I bought the truck used and not from a Nissan dealer? Sorry for my ignorance here. I was recently quoted $720 by my local repair shop while I had it in for new brakes. Thanks in advance.
 
#3 ·
Yeah, you only have 48k so have the dealer fix it. And if they give you any flack about the lift/tires.

Explain this to them:

First of all, the lift kit doesn't affect the axle bearings/seals in any way, so they can get that thought out of their minds.

Second, the larger tires could potentially cause a bearing failure. You don't have a bearing failure though, you have a seal failure. So it wasn't the wheel/tire that caused the seal failure. What I'm saying is that the wheel/tire would cause the bearing to fail, which in turn would cause the seal to fail. That's not the case here though. You ONLY have a seal failure, which is a well documented problem.

They should fix it and send you on your way if they're any kind of dealership though.
 
#4 ·
54warrior said:
Yeah, you only have 48k so have the dealer fix it. And if they give you any flack about the lift/tires.

Explain this to them:

First of all, the lift kit doesn't affect the axle bearings/seals in any way, so they can get that thought out of their minds.

Second, the larger tires could potentially cause a bearing failure. You don't have a bearing failure though, you have a seal failure. So it wasn't the wheel/tire that caused the seal failure. What I'm saying is that the wheel/tire would cause the bearing to fail, which in turn would cause the seal to fail. That's not the case here though. You ONLY have a seal failure, which is a well documented problem.

They should fix it and send you on your way if they're any kind of dealership though.
...+1 and then file a complaint with the NHTSA about the axle seal leak. There is a sticky in the drive train forum on how to do it.
 
#7 ·
prelude1911 said:
what the warranty good up to? I got a 05 Titan with 70,000 miles on it and just notice a leak also.
Unless you have some type of extended warranty, it expired at 60,000.
 
#8 ·
yeah out of warranty costs ya $360. Just paid for one side myself.
 
#10 ·
prelude1911 said:
damn, dat sucks! Anyone know how hard it is to replace it yourself? Or anyone know where I can get a free service manual. Don't wana just start tearing the car apart with a schematic.
Here ya go do a write and how to would ya.
 

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#12 ·
#14 ·
prelude1911 said:
freak i just got off the phone with the nissan dealer and he said $500-$600 bucks!!!!! Damn!
YEah thats with the axle kit where everything is pressed on and ready to slide in the parts are $270 which includes a new shaft wheel studs bearings etc. The do it yourselfer needs to do a write up on this.
 
#43 ·
YEah thats with the axle kit where everything is pressed on and ready to slide in the parts are $270 which includes a new shaft wheel studs bearings etc. ...
Note 2008 pricing in this post.

I just did this.

Bare shaft: $325
_All_ the other bits: $225

A ready-to-go spare axle built up from new replacement parts is therefore $550.

Everything seems clear enough from the descriptions, procedures, and photographs available in this thread and others, but what I haven't seen explicitly stated is: which way does the oil seal go on the shaft?

The procedure says 'make sure it's right' -- big help...

I am hoping to have my spare axle built up -before- I pull the original.

The bearing and cage are obvious, the ABS sensor wheel, spacer, and snap ring don't care, but the seal isn't shown clearly.

Another question: 'The Procedure' calls for a 30" tubular drift to press on the bearing and spacer. I couldn't find pipe or steel tube with their required dimensions (2.125" OD x 1.625"). I had planned to retain the bearing and spacer with press plates and press from the outer end down. What's the hot setup for getting those parts pressed on? I may be making this harder than it has to be...

Thanks in advance.
 
#16 ·
If I was going to spend any money on a stock diff, I would install TruTrac at the same time. Might as well fix both problems at the same time. I see a complete new axle can be bought for around $1200 for non locking axle. If I am going to spend 500 dollars for a fix I know will return, I will go for a complete fix.
 
#17 ·
prelude1911 said:
so basically the seal that bad is where the whole axle slide into the housing? I want to try to do this myself but don't know how difficult it going to be to remove the whole axle. anyone know what involved in replacing the seal?

While I haven't done it...this is how I think it's done???

Remove the wheel/tire assembly.
Remove brake caliper/rotor/etc.
Remove four bolts/retainer plate which hold the axle/bearing/seal.
Slide axle out.
Destroy seal/bearing to remove.
Install new axle/bearing/seal assembly "kit" (How much of a PITA this is, IDK??)
Re-install the four bolts/plate.
Re-install braking system.
Re-install wheel/tire assembly.
Install Axle Vent Mod

Top off diff fluid.

Someone correct if that is wrong somewhere.
 
#18 · (Edited)
54warrior said:
While I haven't done it...this is how I think it's done???

Remove the wheel/tire assembly.
Remove brake caliper/rotor/etc.
Remove four bolts/retainer plate which hold the axle/bearing/seal.
Slide axle out.
Destroy seal/bearing to remove.
Install new axle/bearing/seal assembly "kit" (How much of a PITA this is, IDK??)
Re-install the four bolts/plate.
Re-install braking system.
Re-install wheel/tire assembly.
Install Axle Vent Mod

Top off diff fluid.

Someone correct if that is wrong somewhere.
There is a collar that is pressed on that holds the bearing. That has to be broken off before you can slide the bearing and seal off. The new collar will come with the seal and will have to be pressed back on to the axle. If your going to do it yourself I would replace the bearing also just for peace of mind. So you wont have to do it again for the bearing. And yes definately do the axle vent mod.My right rear axle had a little seepage and after I did the vent mod it seem to stop. My backing plate is still dry after I had wiped it off. I think my vent must have been plugged causing pressure to build up and forcing the oil out the seal. because now after 7k mi. Its still dry.
 
#22 ·
On my old 04 I had the dealer do 4 seals before 62k...I wanted a new rearend on the 2nd one at 30k Something must have been wrong to blow 4 right? Well now they didn't fix the rear end and I decided to sell the truck because of it causing the seals to fail every 15k. Too bad Nissan can't stand by their products and just let their customers get screwed. And you wonder why people won't buy the titan again.
 
#24 ·
prelude1911 said:
anyone know where i can download a free copy of the service manual so i can try to attempt this repair myself?
I picked up a CD-ROM manual off eBay. It's very detailed and worth the measly $10. Just a cheap copy on a disk though...

I can't post links yet, but it's Item number: 190220600397 (go to eBay.com and type in the item number in the search bar)
 
#26 ·
No, you'll need the collar and the plate that has the studs on it as well.
...Negitive...That's the axle bearing retaining plate used over again...

Yes you will need a new bearing, seal and collar. The collar gets removed first, then the bearing/seal get pressed off the axle. The seal is outside the bearing so it has to be pressed off to get to the seal destroying it in the process...Just like the Ford 9" axles bearing/seals...

If you don't have acess to a long enough press, you can still save money be pulling your own axles out of the rear end and taking them down to an auto parts store set-up to do the pressing for you...:eyebrow:
 
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#29 ·
...Negitive...That's the axle bearing retaining plate used over again...

Yes you will need a new bearing, seal and collar. The collar gets removed first, then the bearing/seal get pressed off the axle. The seal is outside the bearing so it has to be pressed off to get to the seal destroying it in the process...Just like the Ford 9" axles bearing/seals...

If you don't have acess to a long enough press, you can still save money be pulling your own axles out of the rear end and taking them down to an auto parts store set-up to do the pressing for you...:eyebrow:
DING! DING! DING! DING! WE HAVE A WINNER!

Pull the axle, piece of cake :ftard: Take it to a shop to do the parts swap.
Take it home slide it back in and bolt it up and your good :thumbsup:
Good time to change the fluid.
 

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